Where we love is home, Home that our feet may leave, but not our hearts. —Oliver Wendell Holmes

Photo by Thor Janson: The town of Ixchiguán

With its black-sand beaches, powerful waves and sea turtle nesting grounds, Monterrico has been ranked among the 10 Best Beach Destinations in the World by Yahoo Travel.
Guatemala’s quaint, south coast community joins the ranks of Ka’anapali, Maui, Hawaii; Hahei Beach, New Zealand; and Sanur Beach, Bali, in Yahoo’s global hit list of beaches to visit in 2011.

“When it comes to something a bit different, our readers recommend the black volcanic sands of Monterrico, Guatemala,” according to the Yahoo Travel scribes.

“Located on the Pacific coast, Monterrico differs from the calm waters and soft sands of other popular vacation spots—its powerful waves are suitable for only the strongest swimmers,” the description continues.

“Aside from the challenging surf, most people come to see the endangered sea turtles that use the beach as a nesting ground. You might even catch a glimpse of the newly-hatched offspring during your visit. The small fishing village of Monterrico provides plenty of options for inexpensive accommodations and restaurants.”

Atop the list was Anse Lazio, Seychelles. Other destinations in the Top 10 are Playa Norte, Isla Mujeres, Mexico; Santa Rosa Beach, Florida, USA; Cas Abao Beach, Curacao; Santa Marta, Colombia; and Coronado Beach, San Diego, California, USA.

To help plan your Monterrico getaway go to: www.visitmonterrico.com

Traveling on horseback allows a visitor time to absorb the natural beauty and imagine what life was like here 100 years ago.

text and photos by Linda Green Roesch

Want a really different Guatemalan adventure, far off the beaten tourist track? Try a trip to the spectacular Sierra de los Cuchumatanes mountains in Guatemala’s Highlands, the highest non-volcanic mountain range in Central America.

We arrived at the rustic, comfortable Posada El Unicornio Azul near the town of Chiantla in the area of Chancol in late afternoon after a five-hour drive from La Antigua. This is a perfect base camp for two or three days of exploring. The lodge is rustic, comfortable and clean, with hot showers (welcome in the cold climate at this altitude).
We joined other visitors at the inn around a wood stove in the great room and enjoyed a glass of wine and some local cheese as we planned the next few days of our adventure. Options included horseback riding on beautifully conditioned and cared for horses, guided or unguided hikes of different durations and difficulties, and mountain biking on your own bikes or the lodge’s rental bikes.

Over a hearty dinner served family style, hosts Paulina and Fernando helped us decide on a horseback ride the next day. After dinner, some guests played cards or board games, while others read books. At bedtime, we were each given a hot-water bottle to tuck under the thick, woolly Momostenango blankets and warm the bed.

The farm is an excellent base for many nearby excursions, including an archaeological site, small waterfall and lagoon. The beautiful Laguna de Yolnab is close by and you can also visit another spectacular site, Ojo Cimmaron.

The next morning dawned crisp and cold. After a hot breakfast, we mounted our horses, each chosen and matched according to our riding ability, and set off for a ride through dry, stony, high mountain steppes on grassy “roads” lined with piled rocks sprouting thorny agaves.

The trails we rode are designed for foot or animal traffic, not cars. We passed through spectacular countryside, traversing wild, seemingly untouched areas only to round a bend and encounter a tiny “cantón” consisting of two or three adobe dwellings with tile roofs.

Groups of sheep are herded from one pasture to another, generally by children or women. There are scattered cattle and horses, and even a llama or two. It is charmingly pastoral and peaceful. Traveling on horseback (or hiking) allows a visitor time to absorb the natural beauty and imagine what life was like 100 years ago in Guatemala— it has changed very little.

Our second day we arranged for a five-hour guided hike. Fernando dropped us off with our guide at the peak of La Torre—at 3,800 meters, it’s the highest non-volcanic peak in Central America. We walked through magnificent open plains, scrubby, bonsai-like cypress forests, past moraine lakes, and ended up at the spectacular Puerta del Cielo viewpoint, with vistas stretching to Mexico.

Traveling north from El Unicornio to Nentón, about 2½ hours from Huehuetenango, visitors can stay at the Posada Rural Finca Chaculá, a huge farm that belongs to a cooperative of 210 families representing five ethnic groups—returnees from Mexico after the civil war ended. The families were relocated on the farm, opening it for tourism, generating jobs and economic stability for themselves. This area lies at about 1,100 meters, so is considerably warmer.

The finca, or farm house, is original, with thick walls and a typical roof. It was remodeled a year ago by the cooperative, keeping its charm but adding amenities for visitor comfort. The farm is an excellent base for many nearby excursions, including an archaeological site, small waterfall and lagoon. For good walkers, the beautiful Laguna de Yolnab is close by (11 km. by car, or a 2½-hour walk). You can also visit the another spectacular site, Ojo Cimmaron, a cenote (sinkhole), 150 meters deep and 175 meters wide, with a forest growing at its base. Tours can be arranged to visit Lago Montebello to see sacred caves and prehistoric paintings. The guides are local and are trained by INGUAT.

Both inns belong to the network of Posadas Rurales de Guatemala. Posada Finca Chaculá is independent from Unicornio Azul but receives technical support from Paulina and Fernando. Recommended minimum stay in each area is two days and three nights. Find rates and more information at www.unicornioazul.com

How to get there

El Unicornio Azul
Take the turn to Chiantla and “la cumbre” from the Pan American Highway (before arriving in Huehue). The road is paved. Climb steeply for 12 km and pass El Mirador. After about 1 km the road flattens, and you will pass a small community called La Capellanía. Leave the main road here and take the gravel road to the right for 6 kms. Watch for blue signs with arrows indicating El Unicornio Azul. The property lies nestled in rock hills at the end of a large plain. If in doubt, ask anyone for Chancol, Fernando and Paulina, or “the horses.”

Posada Finca Chaculá
Drive about 2½ hours (160 km) north of Huehuetenango on the Pan American Highway. Take the paved road from Camojá, drive through Nentón until you reach the crossroad to Gracias a Dios/Carmen Xan, desviándose a little below Trinidad. Drive 11 km toward Laguna Brava, passing Las Palmas y Chaculá. You can also reach the Posada from Todos Santos Cuchumatán.

Climate / What to Wear

Temperatures in the Cuchumatanes can drop to below zero (F) at night during the coldest months (November to January), rising to the low 70s during the day. Dress in layers, and bring a windbreaker or rain jacket. Sturdy walking shoes are a must, and a hat, gloves and scarf can be handy. Make sure to pack sunscreen, as it is easy to burn at such a high altitude.

The climate is more temperate in Chaculá due to its lower altitude.

More than a quarter of a century ago, a pal of mine lucked into acquiring a Mercedes-Benz classic, a used-but-babied 300SL “Gullwing.” To say that this is one of the all-time, absolute greatest cars ever made is, in my opinion, an understatement.

When it was introduced around 1952-3, it was as an all-out race car driven by the likes of Argentine Juan Manuel Fangio “El Chueco,” a five-time world champion, and racing great Stirling Moss. This car beat the daylights out of everything from a Ferrari and Maserati to an Aston Martin and Alfa Romeo—the Lotus, Cooper and Porsche weren’t even players in those days.

A couple of years later Mercedes put out a half-tamed version; the Gullwing nickname came from the way the doors opened, up toward the roof. The bodywork looked so beautifully modern that, even very few cars, if any, can better esthetically express fast and furious power.

A few days after my friend purchased the Gullwing, he took me for a ride up the Carretera a El Salvador, which at that time was a two-lane road. It was around five in the afternoon in the rainy season, but not raining, and the air was crystal clear as can be, and as golden as the sun, falling toward the hills to the west of the Valle de la Asunción, could make it. “Technicolor” doesn’t even begin to describe the beauty of the nuances of such an afternoon.

We passed every car in sight going up the hills—not that in those years there were a lot of cars; on a crowded afternoon, from valley’s bottom to top of the hills, you’d pass perhaps a dozen cars at most. Additionally, around that epoch was the very first time when one could actually choose the music one wanted to hear in a car, instead of having to hear what was coming through the radio.

There were two music-reproduction formats: 8-track cartridges (older) and cassettes (newer); in the couple of days since he’d gotten the car, my pal had put in a cassette tape-deck and, as we raced up the Carretera a El Salvador hills, we were listening to the Beatles’ Back in the U.S.S.R., full blast. Aside from the idiotic lyrics, I still think that its beat and rhythm is the best rock music to pound the road in a very fast car. Another piece, Runnin’ Down a Dream, by Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers, runs a close second.

A bit after El Mirador—the lookout to the valley—a car appeared right behind us on a curve. It was a race-prepared BMW 2002 Alpina—2002 was the model, not the year. The BMW was going to the racetrack up on the highland for a late tryout, where there was to be a formal race the next day, a Sunday.

Instantly, the race was on, the music became much more syncopated, with the banshee wail of the engines perfectly complementing the rock music, and the colors of the afternoon becoming way more intense.

The Alpina was about 15 years newer than the Gullwing, but that Merc was THE Merc of all time. My friend was a good driver, but much more prudent than the racecar driver in the Beemer. The other guy passed a truck on the wrong side, squeaking through an impossibly narrow slot, and gained the advantage on us. But he couldn’t get away; we stayed on his bumper, at very high speeds, all the way to the entry to Los Volcanes raceway. We went on, while the Beemer went in. The whole time the Beatles were pounding away and Back in the U.S.S.R. kept coming up.

Adrenaline rush? Hedonism? Youth? Magic on an afternoon? I think all four. I’m grateful we survived the experience. And so I’ll close by recalling a quote that seems apropos, “you only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.”

Lake Petén Itza by Harris and Goller viaventure.com

A quiet place to stay for a El Petén adventure

Halfway between Flores and Tikal, El Remate is a quaint, centrally located community within easy reach of breathtaking ruins, mysterious caves, birdwatching, swimming and more.

Nestled along the eastern shore of Lago Petén Itzá, El Remate provides a variety of lodging and dining choices, plus scenic vistas of the lake and its famous formation: Cerro Cahuí (Crocodile Hill), with a silhouette resembling a giant croc gliding on the lake.

In addition to Tikal, just 33 kilometers away, these destinations, among others, are within easy reach of El Remate:

• Biotopo Cerro Cahuí, a tropical rainforest of some 700 hectares. Noted for its birdwatching, this hilly destination also offers scenic views of Lago Petén Itzá amid the lush vegetation. It’s also an important watershed for the lake.
• Actún Kan, a serpentine formation of limestone caves. Watch for bats as you enter this humid, slippery world of stalactites and stalagmites. (see page 106)
• Parque Natural Ixpanpajul, a 450-hectare forest with 200 species of trees, 150 species of birds and around 40 species of mammals. A favorite attraction is the zip-line ride known as the Tarzan Tour.
• Petencito Zoo, with a collection of jaguars, monkeys, macaws and other native wildlife.

Pana, unlike La Antigua, is no predictable grid. There are countless blind corners and weird angles, all inviting, particularly in Uptown, or Old Pana, the town’s oldest quarter (downtown, or “El Centro” is considered the spot where Calle Santander starts). Uptown is the most walkable part of Pana, and its corners beckon to be rounded and savored with the slowness that only pedestrians can succor.

Uptown is eclectic, given its compactness. I could argue that visitors to Pana have not really visited unless they traipse through Uptown. Everyone strolls Santander and the waterfront, but Uptown is Panajachel at its most authentic. You meet few or no peddlers in Old Pana, and it is an arresting counterpoint to the “touristy” face of that other Pana.

Start at the intersection of Calle Principal and Palopó Road. There sits (1) El Ancla, Pana’s original general store, where they still sell a little of everything that is not perishable, from stationery to fishing line. It is Pana’s oldest retailer in continuous operation, a success owed to the Mazarriegos family’s policy of standing behind everything they sell since 1956.

The next place meriting a stop once occasioned a bizarre exchange for me with a Polish couple. They looked lost, so I offered directions. It seemed that they were asking me if I knew the “Maya Canuck.” Well, I did know Rick McArthur, a Canadian who speaks Maya Kakchikel in his work with Wycliffe translators, and who had been called this. But when I offered to lead them to Rick, they were confounded.

Eventually it dawn-ed that their destination was (2) the Maya Kanek, Panajachel’s oldest hotel, which predates the 1961 electrification of the city by decades. Its lobby, featuring intriguing codex-like murals, is unchanged from the days when it was Uptown’s only comfortable lodging. The “coffee table” is a shellacked slice of a tree trunk. Don Antonio, the affable proprietor, can answer questions about Panajachel history.

A little farther up the street, you find Panajachel’s newest and strangest landmark (3).
“Torchito,” as the statue atop the pedestal is known, was erected in 2007 to commem-orate 50 years of the annual footrace that originally linked Pana with nearby San Andrés Semetabaj; today, the torch is borne all the way to Guatemala City. One of Torchito’s feet is bare, honoring those of the original runners who ran the course on their unshod feet.

Just behind Torchito is (4) Panajachel’s city park. Behind the small, shaded promenades and the sculptures of T-rex and President Barrios, the municipal “palace” perches on a stony platform. There is nothing palatial about the building, but the platform boasts (5) a relief mural carved in 1980 by Jordán Alegría, showing an allegorization of the conquest. On the right, a resplendent, feathered Tecún Umán resists a charge from a mounted Pedro de Alvarado. The latter’s forces, on the left, are a mix of Spaniards and Alvarado’s Tlaxcaltecan (Mexican) allies. It may be my imagination, but the figures on the right seem, by design, of nobler countenance.

Continue up the street to (6) Pana’s new mercado.

The old mercado, a smelly warren of ramshackle stalls, would never have been a stop on any walking tour. Trash and vermin were never far from the wares on sale. But today’s mercado enjoys a planned layout that is a paragon of space utility, airiness, aesthetics and sanitation. The expansive rain shield protects from the elements while allowing full ventilation, as well as full exploitation of natural light. Despite this manicured presentation of a highlands marketplace, no authenticity was sacrificed. You never forget that you are in Guatemala, since all the usual ingredients are present: produce stalls, dry-goods sellers, alcoves of meatcutters, humble diners, clothiers and a local for reed baskets and mats. Your tour should include some roaming here.

A side street leads to (7) the new municipal library, the finest in Sololá Department, and Uptown’s true palace. The library, with its arched windows and wrought-iron grating, replaces an older one that burned down in 2000. It owes its existence to indefatigable American author Ann Cameron and her husband Bill, and doubles as the town museum. Labeled exhibits of historical pictures and textiles adorn the walls and pylons. The most poignant exhibit is a page from one of the 8,000 books destroyed in the fire.

After you exit the library, cross the street toward the Catholic church. Within the elegant gate you can see finely sculpted floral mounds and collared trees. Go right, following the sidewalk to the (8) church plaza, Uptown’s only open space. Pana’s City Hall departs from the norm by sitting behind the church, rather than facing it over a plaza. Open-air and official ceremonies nonetheless take place on this spot: Deer Dances, Catholic processions, and the annual feria all culminate here.

Across the street stands the medieval-looking (9) belfry, believed to be Pana’s oldest edifice. The bell inside, massively cracked, is seldom rung.

From the plaza, enter the (10) church dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi, Pana’s patron. The thick granite walls of the current church, dating from the 1800s, soften the bustle of Panajachel, making the church a favorite interfaith meditation spot.

From the plaza, go south again into Pana’s oldest commercial area, which before the tourist boom of the 80s was home to coffee and grain brokers. Even today the aroma of fresh coffee is piped into this quarter of barbers and tailors by the Roberts family of South Africa, to allure walkers to their (11) Crossroads Café, where premium coffees can be sampled and bought in bulk.

Turn left at the next corner to reach the clinic and (12) gallery of pediatrician Gerardo Barreno, a self-described “Mayaphile.” Dr. Barreno, who charges as little as Q10 for consultations, provides scultptors, painters and artisans with a free showcase that has launched careers. It may be the perfect spot to buy a memento of your walk through Old Panajachel, or, if nothing else, to see Mona Lisa with Maya features.

photos by Shaila Reddy

text and photos by Anthony Brindisi

At 133 meters, the majestic Salto de Chilascó is Central America’s tallest waterfall

Guatemala is a country brimming with cultural diversity and natural beauty. It is proudly referred to as “The Soul of the Earth,” and every year between one and two million tourists flock to this multicultural, remarkably topographic, fascinatingly biodiverse land to experience its magic and wonder. Tourism is one of the country’s largest and fastest-growing industries with awe-inspiring attractions such as Lake Atitlán, the Mayan ruins of Tikal and the flowing lava of Volcán Pacaya. However, while these international attractions receive most of the attention, new opportunities have also arisen throughout the Guatemalan countryside for smaller, eco-friendly, community-tourism destinations. For those adventurers who like to travel off the beaten path, the village of Chilascó is host to one of these hidden touristic treasures.

An aldea of Salamá, Baja Verapaz, Chilascó can be found neatly tucked inside the picturesque rolling hills of Central America’s largest cloud forest, La Biosfera de Sierra de Las Minas. Within the biosphere you can find a cornucopia of flora and fauna, 70 percent of Guatemala’s biodiversity, and the national bird, the quetzal. But a special attraction is the majestic Salto de Chilascó, Central America’s tallest waterfall. For generations the families here have survived off fertile soil, an irriguous climate and good, old-fashioned work ethic. But recently, empowered by the surge of tourism in Guatemala, they have begun to use the pristine natural beauty of their surroundings to help in their struggle with poverty. This community may be small, but their hearts and dreams are anything but, and in 2005 the citizens formally formed The Association for the Sustainable Development of Chilascó (ADESOCHI).

ADESOCHI is a grassroots community organization that was founded on the principles of ecotourism. The association has three goals: conservation, education and income generation. The idea is to create new sources of income for the community, while protecting natural resources and fostering respect for the environment through education. ADESOCHI is constantly working to provide the citizens of Chilascó with opportunities to improve their standard of living. They hire and train local youths as guides, help local artisans sell their products, and put unemployed men to work performing trail maintenance. This dedicated group of elected community leaders, led by President Clementino García Pérez, shines as an example for similar projects throughout the region.

As you pull into Chilascó the first thing you will see is a thatched-roof hut that serves as the Tourist Information Center. Here you will be greeted by an enthusiastic member of ADESOCHI and receive a detailed explanation of the all the products and services that the community has to offer. The main attraction is a scenic hike that leads to the base of Central America’s tallest waterfall (entrance: Q35/us$4). To reach El Salto de Chilascó it is a three-kilometer hike through the cloud forest. A popular and highly advisable option is to hire a professionally trained local guide. He or she will point out the many endemic species of flora and fauna, help you spot some of the over 200 different types of birds that inhabit the area and share interesting stories from the community.

The first two kilometers of the trail are passable on horseback, and the local boys are always excited to provide this service. After this you will reach a rest area known as La Cumbrita, which marks the end of the biosphere’s buffer zone and the beginning of the core zone, a denser area of the forest that remains unadulterated by human influence. The transition from one zone to the next is strikingly evident as the path narrows and you suddenly find yourself surrounded by jungle. The final kilometer is all downhill as you make your descent toward the base of the waterfall. On the way down, as you enjoy the refreshingly pure mountain air that holds the unmistakable scent of pine, your guide will first lead you to El Saltito. This smaller of the two waterfalls offers a great opportunity to take a dip in the water and cool down. After this you will pass the campground, where you can pitch your tent as the peaceful sound of the waterfall serenades you in the background.

Continuing from the campground you will pass two miradores that present stunning views and excellent photo-ops. Then, suddenly, the path opens up into a grand valley, a beautiful oasis, where towering overhead is a cascading waterfall that stands at an impressive 133 meters tall. The final mirador is a great place to relax and enjoy the cool spray of the mist. The more adventurous can actually climb the rocks right up to the base of the waterfall. Breathe the fresh air, listen to the water as it splashes on the rocks, watch the birds soaring overhead, feel the tranquility of the environment, and soak up the memory of what is truly one of Guatemala’s greatest natural wonders. Then head back to town for a typical Guatemalan meal prepared by Doña Petrona at the local comedor.

Before leaving don’t forget to check out the handmade products of the local artisans. The women of Chilascó make a wide variety of high-quality baskets, hats, vases and more out of pine needles and other plants from the region. They are currently working on a line of Christmas tree ornaments that will be available in Casa de los Gigantes in Antigua.

Getting to Chilascó is easy. From Guatemala City, follow the CA-14, known as the road to Cobán, to kilometer 142 where you will see a large sign for the turn-off to your right. From the thruway it is a 12-kilometer drive on a well-maintained dirt road that winds its way through the mountain range. Those traveling by bus should head to the Monja Blanca station in the capital. Take that to the Chilascó junction, and from there you will find microbus transportation to the Tourist Information Center. It’s about a three-hour trip from Guatemala City. Come visit!

written by Brent Holmes photos: Winston Scott

Festival of the Patron Saint San Antonio Senahú, Alta Verapaz

Pretty wild stuff it was that December night of fireballs at the festival of the Patron Saint San Antonio, Senahú. The game is kind of like “dodge ball” except the balls are on fire, like a couple of street gangs facing off, throwing fire balls at each other.

Rags are pressed tightly into grapefruit-size balls, wrapped in chicken wire and then soaked in gasoline. The players wear wet gloves so they won’t burn their hands. Two teams of about 10 young men throw the fireballs, trying to strike a member of the opposing team. When hit, the excess gasoline sloughs off on the shirt, pants or face and continues to burn. Somehow no one gets seriously burned. The fire is quickly patted out and the game continues. I didn’t see anyone keeping score, nor did I learn what the object was except wild fun. I did see fire balls strike cars, buildings, tents but nothing caught fire much to my surprise. All three of us in our party were hit, but I am happy to report all flames were quickly patted down and out. Apparently some of the fireballs are directed at spectators so as to make things livelier. The fireball game came from San Pedro Carchá early in the 20th century and still takes place in both cities once a year.

Dave, my son-in-law and I were invited by his school friend to come to the fair at Senahu and see the fireball game. He said it would be exciting and it certainly was. Our host, Winston Scott is a PhD candidate in Anthropology at SUNY, Albany, New York. He has lived a few years with the Maya of Alta Verapaz and has become fluent in three languages: Q’eqchi’, Kaqchikel, K’iche’ and of course Spanish. A bright young man he is well respected by all Senahú. It was real fun to watch our host speak the native languages, it just blows the minds of the locals to have some gringo speak so easily and fluently with them.

I am very convinced this gives him a decided edge on friendship and personal safety.

Senahú is located about three hours by dirt road from Cobán. The ride, at some times rough, is through the beautiful Polochic valley. In the dry season we did not need a four-wheel drive, just a high clearance vehicle. To get to Senahú, head toward Cobán, exiting about 30 km south of Cobán at the Texaco station, and then pass thru picturesque villages and towns of San Miguel Tucurú, La Tinta, Telemán. At Telemán turn up the mountain to Senahú. The city of about 5,000 is nestled in a little valley, a bowl of green, a former center of the coffee industry in Alta Verapaz. Prices are reasonable, that’s for sure. We paid $10 per room at the El Recreo hotel, which offers clean rooms, hot water and a restaurant. An option in roughly the same price range is La Casa de Don Fidel. Food is good. Prices are great. One can eat like a lesser king for $5.

After the parade of the patron saint, the action starts. First the fireworks, aerial bombs, star bursts and so forth. Then the rockets come. Only this time the rockets are not aimed skyward but aimed horizontally at the spectators on the Cathedral steps! I guess fire ball action is not enough. One needs to learn how to dodge a rocket, fast! They were blasting away at the crowd, but we saw no one hurt even though several definitely hit their targets.

The next day Winston took us to visit friends in the caserio Seokok, about an hour out of Senahú. A caserío is about as small as you can get in the hierarchy: ciudad, pueblo, aldea, caserio. Seokok amounted to four or five homes along the roadside. No one has electricity. The family we met live in a typical Mayan home, dirt floor, bamboo and wood walls, grass roof, wood-burning stove—and a television set run by a small gas generator. There is no reception but no matter—for a fee, the people of the casero use it to watch DVD videos and movies.

We were offered coffee made of roasted cornmeal, which tasted pretty much like coffee. The family has two very attractive daughters and Winston seems to be somewhat of a brother to them. I recall he offered to buy one daughter a new huipil for Christmas, a very beautiful one from the capital. She said she would prefer a cell phone. So a cell phone she got. A recently installed communication tower has upped the prestige and practicality of a cell phone, making it far more important than a new blouse. I re-learned from this brief visit that humble people are generally very good people. This is a very good family! The kids are being well educated in the big cities and will have a different life than their parents, we hope a better life.

Returning from Senahú to the capital Guatemala we went down the Polochic Valley to El Estor, Río Dulce and back. El Estor is a lakeside town and has a fair share of charm. Río Dulce is like paradise on earth. But those are other stories for another time.