In the Newberry Award-winning book (and Disney movie) Holes, the hero Stanley Yelnats and his friend Zero survive in a barren desert after discovering a hidden lake tucked on top of a mountain. Though Guatemala´s Western Highlands are far from barren, scaling the breathtaking Laguna Chicabal makes you wonder if the author of Holes drew any inspiration from this local gem.

A microbus ride away from Quetzaltenango, the lagoon rests in the collapsed top of a dormant volcano. Not terribly large —perhaps a mile all around—the lagoon impresses visitors at once not only with its sheer beauty, but also with how isolated it is. More northern Minnesota than Lake Atitlán, this is the perfect day trip if you´re staying in the area and one of the few destinations that is probably more popular with locals than tourists.

The hike to Chicabal´s concave peak is a little over a mile from the base. The cloud forest around you and the rolling mountains beyond mean you will be more than happy to stop, and the view provides a better excuse than the elevation. The vista also makes the journey seem like every other Highlands hike—until glimpses of blue through the trees hint at something you´ve never quite seen before.

Part of the laguna´s appeal is its mystical (and mythical) history, a doorway to another world for many Mayas. While we watched from a lookout deck, clouds rose over the bluffs with remarkable speed, gathering strength and body before they twisted downward like an extinguished candle in reverse. Casting shadows that morphed across the water’s surface, it looked as if spirits from above were diving down to converse with creatures rising up from the depths. Before contact, the fog stopped and hovered at the surface, the black creatures below doing the same. The two never touched. Then sunlight broke through and the mist disappeared.

The lagoon impresses visitors at once not only with its sheer beauty, but also with how isolated it is.

The water is surrounded by signs marking the 20 sacred days of the Mayan calendar, translated into both K’iche’ and Mam (and it’s the Mam who find the location particularly hallowed). Because it’s used for rituals and sacrifices, swimming is not allowed. But that doesn´t stop an endless stream of locals from camping out on the surrounding shore. While a friend and I walked around, 20-somethings were setting up tents, families were building bonfires, and women were clustered around crosses with fresh ash at their base.

From Quetzaltenango, a microbus near Parque Benito Juárez can get you to the town of San Martín Chile Verde in about 40 minutes, depending on the traffic. Follow the signs until you reach a dirt parking lot with drivers offering to take you to the park’s official entrance. You don’t have to accept, but the hike will take you 90-plus minutes of uphill gasping, sucking in the dirt from locals who opted for the pickup. We chose the ride. (I was, however, probably ripped off paying a Q100 round-trip fee. Try for a lower fare). You’ll be dropped off near a large soccer field and some unfinished cabins. Pay the Q15 entrance fee, and you’re off to the top.

photos by Blake Nelson

View of Quetzaltenango from the summit of Volcán Santa María (photo by Kristen Moser)

From many viewpoints in Guatemala’s western Highlands, the Volcán Santa María stands like a sentinel overlooking its kingdom. Wrapped in a vortex of clouds, the volcano is a constant reminder to the population of Quetzaltenango and environs of its eruption a century ago that almost completely destroyed Guatemala’s second largest city. Yet today, Santa María stands as one of the most rewarding–and difficult–climbs in all of Central America.

Soon after moving to Guatemala, I signed up to climb Quetzaltenango’s Mount Olympus. The ascent was brutal, less “leisurely hike” and more “clawing your way up a cliff face.” The task is complicated by how high you’re going: Quetzaltenango alone sits at 7,500 ft., and over the next three to five hours you’ll be scaling another 5,000 ft.

It doesn’t help that you will probably be passed by lines of Maya women wearing plastic sandals, balancing packages on their heads. This happened a few times while I was bent over sucking air, and was reminded of getting passed years earlier by a Girl Scout troop while climbing Half Dome in Yosemite National Park. Neither were my proudest moments.

Those same women will most likely be heading to the summit for a religious ceremony combining ancient Mayan traditions, Roman Catholicism or Pentecostal worship into a unique combination often called costumbre. The circles of chanting women form part of Guatemala’s incredible cultural tapestry, and are unforgettable to witness.

But upon reaching the top yourself, you will at least momentarily forget about them, because there are few places on Earth that can compare to this view. The 360 degree panorama lets you see the bottom of the Sierra Madre in Mexico, the border of Belize, and the flickering waves of the Pacific. Even on an overcast day, you’ll be so far above the clouds you’ll feel like Zeus, presiding over your distant subjects below.

Many will argue you haven’t truly done Santa María until you’ve completed the midnight hike, which is exactly what it sounds like: choose a full moon night, begin climbing at one in the morning, and watch the sunrise light up the continent from the best box seats around. Just prepare for a freezing hike up.

After reaching the top I fell asleep on my back. This was a mistake, since at over 12,000 ft. the peak of Santa María and the surface of the sun are old buddies. I woke up with the front of my neck so red that one of my students would later remark, “Mister, you look like a quetzal.”

The hike down, while considerably shorter, can be pretty brutal on your knees. Wear good shoes, and be prepared with a poncho (if it’s the rainy season) or warm clothes if you’ve picked anytime during the dry season. There’s no entrance fee, but since the path can be a bit unclear an organization like Quetzaltrekkers is a good idea for a first timer. Never try it alone, especially since there have been sporadic reports of hikers being robbed near the base.

Guatemala offers tons of hiking options, including the larger Volcán Tajumulco farther north. But nothing compares to Santa María’s proximity to a great city at the bottom and breathtaking view at the top. Pack lots of water, a good camera, and remember sun screen on your neck.

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text/photos by Carla Berryhill

I have been to Lake Atitlán several times since moving to Guatemala. For me, there really is no one town or village on the lake that stands out more than the other because I think they are all interesting, beautiful and unique—but, my personal favorite is Santa Cruz La Laguna. There are no roads to Santa Cruz so visitors must hop in a lancha, (water taxi) from one of Lake Atitlán’s larger towns.

The little municipalidad of Santa Cruz sits high above the lake, tranquil and picturesque. After walking up the steep calle to reach the town, visitors will be wowed by the most amazing views.

Every time I visit Santa Cruz, I marvel at all there is to do: relax, swim, follow the trail to Jaibalito for lunch or go all the way to San Marcos, hike up to a waterfall, take a back-strap weaving course from one of the local women, or hop on a lancha to San Pedro and go horseback riding, visit the town of Santiago Atitlán, cruise the streets of San Juan de la Laguna and see the array of women’s co-ops that keep traditional weaving and dyeing skills alive—the list goes on.

Traveler Beware: Santa Cruz La Laguna may be habit forming!

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If Sacatepequez boasts La Antigua Guatemala, Alta Verapaz offers Semuc Champey and within Peten’s jungles lie the impressive ruins of Tikal, El Mirador and other ancient cities, what exactly is there to see and do in the department of Jalapa?

Answer: extreme adventure combined with biodiversity!

Just over two hours outside of Guatemala City, hidden in the subtropical mountains of Jalapa, sits Cascadas de Tatasirire, a solar-fuelled retreat in an ecological park bursting with activity. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, the acres of beautifully preserved forest are filled with outdoor entertainment for all ages: swings, canopies, waterfalls and rappelling.

Declared a “protected area” in 2003 by Guatemala’s environmental body CONAP (Consejo Nacional de Areas Protegidas), the eco-park is a sanctuary of flora and fauna which uses its natural environment to fuse recreation with low-impact tourism. The innovative project champions rural development and gives a unique insight into the surrounding indigenous cultures of the Xinka people who co-exist alongside the Pocoman and Ladino communities.

The main attraction is the course of 12 swings spread throughout the forest, offering various levels of aerial exhilaration. Threading yourself through ropes and launching off each of the platforms, you feel like Tarzan swinging through the forest–just remember to hold on with both hands as some swings are 6-12 meters above the ground!

Next step is to brave the canopies: Strap on your harness and weave through the various types of trees on a zipline, which gives you a unique view of the nature, complete with six waterfalls and rivers that enhance the beauty of this park. There is even a mini-canopy specially designed for children. And if you still want more, try rappelling down Tatasirire’s waterfalls–be prepared to get wet!

More than just an adventure park, Cascadas de Tatasirire is a place to rest, recharge your batteries and try your hand at something new. Although you’ll need your own car or private shuttle to get there, since there’s no direct access by bus, the journey to Jalapa is serene: meandering through pueblos as you climb up through the mountains to the Natural Reserve in Cerro Miramundo.

With a five-story log cabin for lodging and plenty of ground for keen campers, it’s a haven for city dwellers or backpackers looking to escape the beaten track. Just don’t expect the Ritz–this is basic accommodation, utilizing waterfalls for showering, that puts you right at the heart of nature. While the tienda stocks basics like soup and biscuits, it’s best to bring your own food and ask for the camping stove to cook it on.

At 2,300 meters above sea level, temperatures plummet at night so bring a sleeping bag and a thick pair of socks. The communal space offers hammocks and an eating area where you can sit out late into the night and listen to the sounds of the forest. However, since the lodge runs on solar energy, it is advisable to pack some candles as it gets dark between 6 and 7 p.m.

Prices are very reasonable and vary on the type of package you choose. You can pay anywhere from Q60, which includes entrance fee and access to the swings, to Q300, which includes entrance fee, all the activities and a couple of nights’ accommodation (note payments in cash only).

Visit www.cascadasdetatasirire.com for more details.

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Like Shangri-La, the name beckons from the maps–enticing, mysterious and alluring: Ixchiguan! I had noticed the place many years ago, and I was always looking for someone who could tell me more about this far-flung outpost. Ask anyone on the street in La Antigua Guatemala if they know anything about Ixchiguan and 99-to-1 they will say that they’ve never heard of it. The only people I have encountered who know of Ixchiguan are hardcore mountain climbers who briefly visited it on their way to scale Guatemala’s highest peaks.For years I entertained the idea of exploring this little-known region in the north. Finally I found the opportunity, and away we went aboard my land-yacht, cruising into the remote western reaches of the Cuchumatanes Mountains.

San Cristobal Ixchiguan is one of 29 municipalities that comprise the Department of San Marcos. It is located 270 kilometers northwest of Guatemala City. All but a few stretches of the highway are now paved.

The most outstanding feature of Ixchiguan is that it is situated on a high plateau 3,200 meters above sea level, making it the highest town in Central America and the second-highest population center in Latin America, after La Paz, Bolivia. And it is high!

The Cuchumatanes are part of the Sierra Madre, the volcanic mountain range that fringes the Pacific Ocean along the entire length of the American hemisphere. Locally the mountain is known as the Cerro Cotzic. From here you can enjoy some of the most spectacular views in all of Guatemala and really appreciate the immensity of the isthmus’ highest volcanoes: Tacana and Tajumulco, 4,060 and 4,220 meters, respectively (13,320 and 13,845 feet). The town of Ixchiguan is surrounded by strangely-shaped mountains and hills, and dozens of rivers and streams meander through the cool alpine forests and tundra-like “quasi-paramo” grasslands.

Here it is too high and cold for the cultivation of corn or even wheat, so the local population of some 25,000, nearly all of whom are of the Mam-Maya tribe, eke out a living pasturing sheep. The principal rivers are the Suchiate, which serves as the border between Mexico and Guatemala as it makes its way to the Pacific, and the Grijalva, which turns into the rivers Selegua and Cuilco on their way to the Atlantic side of the country.

Adventurous travelers who wish to experience the highest road in Central America should drive to Quetzaltenango and then on to the capital of San Marcos at an elevation of 2,000 meters. From here the climb begins up into the Cuchumatanes.

Ixchiguan is only 50 kilometers from San Marcos but it will take you several hours as you drive along the steep, winding road, occasionally damaged by landslides and washouts. As always, whenever you head way off the beaten path in Guatemala you should ask locals for information and advice concerning road conditions.

Our ascent was slowed considerably because an hour out of town, at an elevation of about 2,700 meters, we were suddenly enveloped by a cloud bank, reducing visibility to no more than 10 meters. As we crawled along up the endless switchbacks the temperature fell to near freezing. Due to the clouds we did not see much during the trip up but that only added to the mystery.

When we finally made it to Ixchiguan, we were in a freezing-misting rain and opted to camp adjacent to the gas station on the outskirts. Thankfully my camper has a heater, which was much appreciated that evening. The manager greeted us in English! As we were to find out over the coming days, Mam-Maya is the language spoken by the inhabitants, but English is almost as common as Spanish in this district, as many of the people have gone to work in the States.

Dawn came with the most brilliant blue sky above and not a cloud present: a perfect day to explore the area. The town itself is pretty small and has only one rustic hotel. We took a drive to the north toward the town of Tacana to check out the highest viewpoint at a breathless 3,500 meters. From here you get the most amazing vista of Tajumulco Volcano and the entire mountain range down to the coastal plain. Absolutely spectacular!

Another enjoyable side trip is to the little town of San Jose Ixjoyon Ojetenam, where there is a park used by locals for picnicking. The park includes a small lagoon stocked with mojarra, a fish that makes for a delicious fresh-cooked lunch.

If you’d like to experience a white Christmas in Guatemala, the best place would be Ixchiguan, where snow is not unheard of. The nights are freezing cold but the days, in the dry season, are flooded with the most intense sunshine. The locals will be quite surprised at your presence but we found them to be extremely warm and hospitable.

When you visit Ixchiguan the hands of time turn back several decades, it is a land where magic is alive and well and where the spirit of the people shines outward, welcoming one and all.

Santiaguito consists of four domes (from left to right): El Caliente (erupts 10-20 times daily), La Mitad, El Monje, El Brujo (photo: R.W. Sanderson)

Volcanic offshoot beckons trekkers to the Highlands

A mere infant in geologic time, the Santiaguito lava dome is a steam- spewing, smoke-belching spectacle

just outside Quetzaltenango in Guatemala’s Western Highlands.

Rising more than 8,000 feet above sea level, Santiaguito (Little St. James) is one of the world’s most active lava-dome com- plexes, consisting of several jagged peaks that have been forming in the aftermath of the catastrophic eruption of adjacent Volcan Santa Maria over a century ago.

Santa Maria, a 12,375-foot, roughly 30,000-year-old volcano, had been dormant for at least 500 years, if not several thousand, before a 10-month series of earthquakes signaled impending volcanic activity. On Oct. 25, 1902, Santa Maria erupted with such force that its volcanic ash reached San Francisco, California, some 2,500 miles away.

The disaster killed at least 5,000 people– a widely acknowledged underestimate–and more victims perished in a malaria outbreak that followed. Santa Maria ranks with Novarupta (Alaska, 1912) and Mount Pinatubo (Philippines, 1991) as one of the most violent eruptions of the 20th century.

Rising since 1922 in Santa Maria’s aftermath, the Santiaguito moonscape consists of four domes: El Caliente, the largest and most active with frequent eruptions; La Mitad; El Monje; and El Brujo.

Today, Santa Maria’s forested slopes provide a tranquil overlook of the noisy offspring, a popular destination for trekkers to get a close-up view of one of Guatemala’s most amazing sights.

For my recent visit, Adrenalina Tours arranged for lodging at the Villa de Don Andres, a quaint and cozy bed and breakfast just a block from Quetzaltenango’s Central Park.

Since clouds roll over the mountains by late morning, the day began with a 5 a.m. pickup for the half-hour drive to Llano del Pinal, a pueblo at the foot of Santa Maria. Edgar, a knowledge- able young guide from a local indigenous family, led the way in the morning fog.

Through fields of corn, potatoes, beans, onions, flowers and more, the trail rose along the base of Santa Maria. Occasionally, workers equipped with machetes, shovels and hoes walked or rode by on horseback to farm fields on the slopes.

Prominent on the horizon was the Siete Orejas (Seven Ears), a volcano with seven peaks that are said to resemble ears.

It took about two hours to reach the mirador, at an altitude of about 1,300 feet, providing breathtaking views of the Santiaguito siblings in a rocky, gray cluster, only a half mile away.

For more adventurous travelers, a two-day, overnight trek leads to a much higher outlook on Santa Maria, actually looking down at El Caliente, which erupts 10-20 times daily in addition to emitting constant towers of steam.

Though scenic, the destination is rated dangerous by volcanologists because of its high possibility of life-threatening eruptions–and with good reason. Violent eruptions in the 1980s and ’90s created dense mudflows in rivers below that leveled the nearby village of El Palamar and killed hundreds of residents.

Even so, adventure-seeking travelers from around the world are drawn to the site to marvel in its power and splendor.

For Quetzaltenango and the Highlands travel information, package tours and more visit www.adrenalinatours.com or your local tour operator.

After an expedition to the Sierra Madre of Chiapas, I was returning to Guatemala recently only to be greeted at the border by a glitch in the system and a real-life Catch-22. A new regulation says foreign-plated vehicles have to stay out of Guatemala for 90 days while the driver is welcome to return.

So, having some time on my hands, I wondered where I might go to do some wildlife photography. Like a lightning bolt the answer flashed into my mind: the Gallon Jug Rainforest in northern Belize. It’s one of my favorite places and I had not gone there for several years.

A few days later, I found myself sprucing up my jungle bungalow at the escarpment camp, perched high above a vast sea of green. The forest preserves of Belize, along with the Mayan Biosphere in Guatemala and the adjacent biospheres in Mexico, comprise the largest block of rainforest north of the Amazon Basin.

Here in the Mayan Rainforest you still can see such keystone wildlife as the harpy eagle, herds of ornery, white-lipped peccary and large cats. In fact, Gallon Jug has the highest density of jaguar anywhere on Earth, which says a lot.

This huge private forest reserve exists due to the visionary efforts of Belizean entrepreneur and conservationist Sir Barry Bowen, who was best known as the owner of the Belikin Beer Co. (Sir Barry died tragically when his plane crashed in 2010.)

Years ago Sir Barry encouraged me to document the wildlife of Gallon Jug, and I have continued to do so since the early 1980s with the idea of eventually producing a book on the area. Every time I go out for a walk in this rainforest I find new and fascinating things to photograph.

Hello Kitty

The heat was on and the temperature was 96 degrees in the shade where I was relaxing until the afternoon breeze off the Caribbean would bring some relief. April and May are the hot months in this part of the world. Then in June the rains come and temperatures become more moderate. Unlike North America, July and August are considerably cooler here. About 4 p.m. I felt like going out for walk along the road through the jungle. The hot, dry weather makes the entire forest quiet. We are all simply enduring the heat and praying for rain. Some creatures were active, though, and soon I was stalking a mating flock of violacious trogons, which were leading me deeper and deeper into the wilderness.

I was getting some superb shots for my upcoming book on quetzals and trogons of the world. Suddenly, I checked my watch and noticed that time had flown and if I were to make it back to camp before dark I would have make tracks. The idea of spending the night wandering around a forest full of large predators was not my idea of fun. An hour later, as I approached the escarpment, I saw something strange on the road ahead–two creatures, but I could not make out what they were. Jaguarundi, perhaps? They were sleek, cat-like animals, but I didn’t recognize them.

I had my “heavy artillery” with me and snapped a quick shot and zoomed in. Lions! I was thrilled and on edge because I knew that these big cats had seen me before I ever saw them, and they were not moving off the road. Normally, if I see a jaguar or a mountain lion in the forest, it’s only for a brief moment because they are usually very shy and upon seeing a human will retreat into the dense bush. But these lions were bold. They did not move. And over the next few minutes I slowly crept up on them. They were watching my every move but did not run away, which worried me somewhat. Closer and closer I got to them. They were lounging on the road, occasionally getting up and scrutinizing me, but they seemed to be bold and fearless.

The sun would soon be setting, and I did not want to become these lions’ plaything after dark. Not knowing what else to do, I started walking toward them and talking to them. “Nice kitties,” I said loudly–yes, nice kitties. Finally, when I was about 50 yards from them, they got up and quickly disappeared into the green mystery. Back at camp I helped myself to an ice-cold Belikin beer and, as the adrenaline rush subsided, marveled at what had just happened as I watched the red orb of the sun melt into the forest.

The Most Beautiful Eagle on Earth

A few days later I was walking down a remote track north of the escarpment and noticed something funny-looking atop a giant mahogany. Could it be? There was a dense mass of dead branches at least 10 feet wide up near the tree’s crown. I started getting excited because the Mayan Rainforest is home to the harpy eagle Harpia harpyja, the world’s largest raptor and one of the rarest, and the idea of discovering a harpy nest is truly the Holy Grail for a wildlife photographer.

I had been studying the nest for a few minutes when suddenly and silently a huge cocoa-colored, winged entity came gliding in to alight at the edge of the structure. Not a harpy but an ornate hawk-eagle–definitely not a disappointment!

What the ornate lacks in size–and it is by no means small, its wing span must be nearly as wide as the nest–it makes up for in sheer elegance and in the beauty of its markings. Known to scientists as Spizaetus ornatus, its name refers to the large, ornate crest that adorns its head. This was an unexpected bonanza, and during the next hours I remained glued to the great mahogany as both male and female eagles came and went. I could not see into the nest but judging from occasional high-pitched squawks emanating from it, I felt certain chicks were inside. This meant that the birds would quite probably remain there for some time.

In the afternoon I returned with my heavy artillery and a portable blind and settled in for a long campaign to get a good image of the birds in flight. It was easy to get good shots while the eagles were perched, but only in flight do you really see the creature’s magnificence.

Of course, filming them in flight was not at all easy. Patience was essential. For the next 10 days I spent many hours a day at the site and at the end of the effort I felt that I had finally achieved my purpose: a fitting portrait of the most beautiful eagle on Earth, which hopefully may inspire others to explore, appreciate and protect “El Mundo Magico,” the magic world of the wilderness.

Author’s note: The best way to experience the Gallon Jug Rainforest is by booking a stay at the award-winning Chan Chich Lodge, built on the plaza of an ancient Mayan city. Chan Chich is your gateway to some of the best birding and wildlife viewing anywhere in the Mayan Rainforest.

photos by Thor Janson

Eric (l) and Matt (r) meet up after 35 years (photo: Shaun Paul Griffiths)

by Eric Mencher

Years ago in the infancy of my photojournalism career, after I complained yet one more time about a dropped credit line under one of my artful, award-winning photos (or so I had naively thought), an editor once told me that only mothers and other journalists read credit lines and mastheads. I can’t vouch for the mother part, but I’ll bet my Leica that credit gazing is still a habit among journalists.

So I was sitting on my hotel balcony in San Marcos La Laguna, thumbing through the first few pages of the Revue Magazine, and even the three majestic volcanoes across Lake Atitlán couldn’t distract me from the editor’s name.

Could there be more than one journalist in the world named Matt Bokor? The same Matt Bokor who was the editor of The Oracle, the student newspaper at the University of South Florida in Tampa where I got my start as a photojournalist? The same Matt Bokor who had put up with my sort of sophomoric rants about the lack of respect in the world for photography? If it were the same dude, would he even want to hear from me after 35 years?

For once I actually appreciated the ease of finding old friends on Facebook, because two months later, there I stood with Matt (and my lovely wife Kass), sipping free drinks in La Antigua Guatemala at Ocelot’s first-anniversary party (journalists like free drinks almost as much we like looking at credits), talking about old times, old girlfriends and much, much more.

Even after 35 years, I felt an immediate connection with Matt, and didn’t even consider reviving my old mantra of “you ran my picture too small and you didn’t even publish my credit!”

After The Tampa Tribune and St. Petersburg Times, Eric Mencher spent more than 20 years with The Philadelphia Inquirer before starting his own freelance photography business. Visit www.ericmencher.com

The calm (and coffee) after the storm: Santa Anita La Unión

Rebels are on the move in Libya, Egyptians are overhauling their constitution and Tunisians unseated a multi-decade dictator, but reading about it in Guatemala’s relative tranquility makes it easy to forget that the same turmoil engulfed Guatemala not long ago. A history of the 36-year civil war and what has changed since the 1996 Peace Accords has been exhaustively covered in articles and books. But to receive first-hand accounts from those who were there, a few chicken bus rides can put some faces on the statistics.

A little less than two hours outside of Quetzaltenango, Santa Anita La Unión is a fair-trade coffee finca and eco-tourism site founded by a group of 35 ex-guerillas. They’ve transformed land they camped on during the war into a growing community, boasting schoolhouses and basketball courts. Local women will take you on a hiking tour that offers stunning views, a (very cold) waterfall and demonstrations on how to harvest and roast the beans.

One of the main services offered is a conference with an ex-combatant, and we sat down with a man named Mauricio in the main room of the dormitory. Our rooms had originally been home to the guerillas when they first arrived, and their ghosts filled the walls as he talked about the state of the finca today, problems in Guatemala, and what daily life was like on the run from the army. We peppered him with questions, and he gladly answered.

Visitors are welcome to stay for a single night or several weeks, volunteering while living with local families. Your involvement in the community is up to you.

One afternoon during our second day, we were ushered into a small chapel to participate in Mass led by a priest from Colombia. My wife and I were near the back, next to the couple we had eaten with the previous night.

After Mass we watched some American volunteers play with kids around the school buildings. It was “cooking week,” so regular classes had been replaced by cooking workshops, and we joined several high school girls and boys making pastries. After some scooping, mashing and a few dashes of cinnamon the creations were put into an oven, and we waited for them to be ready on the steps of the main building. Surrounded by left-wing murals and under the shadow of Santa Maria, I hoped that these kids offered a way out of the history of violence they had inherited.

Accommodations are more than adequate and prices are reasonable; I hope to return with others. For more information visit www.santaanitafinca.com

Train-like tour hits Highland highlights

With so many cultural, culinary and spiritual destinations in and around Quetzaltenango, visitors can enjoy a leisurely sampling of the area’s most interesting attractions simply by boarding a street-wise locomotive.

Suited to travelers’ time-challenged schedules, Tranvia de los Altos shuttles visitors to significant sites in Guatemala’s second-largest city (commonly known as Xela, from the Mayan Xelajú) in two-hour tours.

Conveniently answering a tourist’s questions of where to go and what to see, Tranvia starts in Central Park with a brief history of the country and city.

Narrated by Tranvia general manager Blanca Ruth Ríos, the tour begins with historic sites bordering the park, such as the Metropolitan Cathedral (dating to 1535), the cultural center and the nation’s first private bank.

A few blocks away lies the historic Teatro Municipal, built with Italian design in 1895 and a Greco-Roman façade added in 1905.

The circuit continues past the historic railroad station (now a museum of typical dress and photography) and offers a stop at the city cemetery and its array of elaborately designed mausoleums. The interred include two former presidents and Vanushka, a young Gypsy circus performer who, according to legend, died of a broken heart and whose spirit helps lovers.

Another stop takes visitors to the restaurant/café Chocolate de Doña Pancha, where guests can make their own chocolate from raw cacao beans.

Itineraries can also be tailor-made for special occasions, special interests and groups, such as business visitors, students or families.

I will prove it to you. To get started you need a recent map of la República.

This is the name given to countries, by those who live in them, whose capital city has the same name as the country itself. Those that come immediately to mind are Guatemala, Mexico and Panama. In effect, it is somewhat true of El Salvador. The capital of that república is, of course, San Salvador. But increasingly, in areas outside of the capital, you hear folks refer to their capital as “El Salvador.”

I blame the ayudantes on intercity buses for this. Anywhere else in the country, you hear them shouting “¡El Salvador!” from the doors of buses approaching rural bus stops. On my first notice of this, perhaps 10 years ago, my thought was, “It’s some national holiday, and this shouting has to do with patriotism or national pride.” But no.

Not that I was unfamiliar with the habit. On my many trips (before moving to Central America) to the Mexican Republic, I began using the phrase as soon as I crossed the border, lest, by saying México, people supposed I was referring to what Mexicans abroad call “DF.”

Inside of la República, we increasingly say “Guatemala” when we used to say Guatemala City. The translation of this latter name, Ciudad de Guatemala, is in fact never heard anywhere. It is a written form for official papers.

Our second most important city also has written and spoken names. The written name—Quetzaltenango—is always understood in speech, but it marks you as a newcomer. The spoken form is Xelajú, which I take pains to say completely; I consider the shortened form, “Xela,” an undignified corruption (for which, again, we probably have bus ayudantes to thank). But why does our second city have two names, and why is the spoken one the preferred one among our hosts?

The written name, Quetzaltenango (place of quetzals) was previously spelt without the first t (“Quezaltenango”). I forget what a quezal must have been, but adding the “t” might have been a way to draw more visitors, even though quetzal birds had long since disappeared from that region. The spoken name, Xelajú, is much older, and a Quiché Mayan place name. Que(t)zaltenango was imposed by the Tlaxcaltecan allies of Pedro de Alvarado, who is “credited” as the conqueror of Guatemala.

In reality, he could not have conquered the region without the aid of these Tlaxcaltecans, who a generation earlier enabled Hernán Cortés to conquer Mexico. The Tlaxcaltecans were, like their Aztec foes, a Nahuatl-speaking people, and the countless place names that are Nahuatl in origin (Chimaltenango, Coatepeque, Totonicapán) are a legacy of their presence in Alvarado’s legions. Many settled here and added to the collective pedigree of modern Guatemalans. But the trauma of the conquest is still felt, so locals go on preferring the old name.

By an edict of the court of Emperor Charles V, ruler of Spain during the era of conquistadores, no town in the colonies could have a charter until assigned a patron (or a holy object, like cruz) and named for the same. Now there are many more places than canonized saints; accordingly, additional names had to added to place names to enable distinction.

In much the same way, the innumerable expat Daves, Mikes and Bobs in Panajachel append qualifiers to their names (in normal communities, last names serve this purpose, but Pana expats forget their last names within six months; we cannot blame ayduantes for this—maybe it is the water supply). We have Wheelchair Dave, English Dave, Sawdust Bob, Chocolate Bob, Coffee Mike, Sausage Mike and so on. There is even another Panajachel elsewhere in la República, but for them postal workers require “last names” (i.e., department names).

Some towns come to be known for their patron saint and others for their added name. Panajachel is officially San Francisco, in honor of Francis of Assisi. And yet you can buy a house here, raise kids, run a business and be buried here without ever knowing this.

The most troubling case of mistakable identity is the two Guatemalan cities with the same first and last names: San Pedro Sacatepéquez. Location may provide context if you are near one or the other. But if you are remote from either, you must say “the one in San Marcos” or “the one near Guatemala.” The latter at least takes its last name from its department.

Alaska and Hawaii are not names that colonial authorities would have recognized. And they are not names of chartered municipalities, but they are recognized by cartographers (futhermore, bus ayudantes had no role in their christening). Both are handles for aldeas, units within municipalities that have their own submayors and councils. Alaska is a chilly village in the Highlands. Hawaii is a humid one on the Pacific.

So, can you really visit all the places listed in the first paragraph of this column? You can—thanks to the double-place-name phenomenon.

Start in Hawaii. Drive north, bound for Alaska, a trip normally taking five hours. But take scenic detours that will carry you though any of the towns named San Luis Something, San Francisco Something, San Antonio Something, and Something de los Ángeles. Also, there is probably a San Something Filadelfia that will not take you much out of the way. This leaves Chicago.

To include Chicago, I cheated some.

On my Dad’s first visit to la República, his intinerary included Chichicastenango. Each time he tried to pronounce the name, he came up with something different. “Chichi-caca-wing-wango-or-whatever-the-hell-it-is” was one result. Finally, he took a pencil and found that, by crossing out certain letters, and without any reordering, one can get “Chicago.”

So add Chichi to the route, and you have done it.

A luxury getaway on a coffee plantation

by Tanya Hughes

“The hardest part is stepping off the edge,” my canopy-tour guide said encouragingly. Dubiously, I peered over the 40-foot drop. After a couple of deep breaths I took that step and I was flying through the air, held securely in place by my harness. Both youngsters and adults can line up for a ride on one of the nine zip lines at Finca Filadelfia, located just outside La Antigua Guatemala. Reassured by the double safety line and my friendly guides Marisou and Eric, I too relaxed and enjoyed the breathtaking ride and views.

My first impression of Finca Filadelfia was the complimentary shuttle that picked me up in Antigua. Not only was it on time, the fun-to-ride, open-air shuttle truck was equipped with working seatbelts and a guide. I noticed and appreciated the small but meaningful attention to detail that set the tone for the rest of my visit.

Soon to be renamed the Filadelfia Coffee Resort, the complex has evolved into a must-visit destination. Thanks to the vision of owner Roberto Dalton, the site encompasses a 700-acre coffee plantation, a luxury resort, restaurants, zip lines, eco touring, including bird watching, mule rides and mountain biking—and, of course, coffee tours! It is the perfect place to go for day trips or extended stays, for families, foodies and adventurers alike.

The coffee tour was fascinating. I doubt I will ever look at a bag of coffee quite the same way again, and I certainly won’t be complaining about the price. I was amazed to learn how many necessary steps and skilled hands it takes to produce one bag of quality coffee beans. Our guide Esteban walked us through the process, from beginning to delicious end. The finca uses no pesticides and produces some of the world’s best organic coffee. Every single bean is picked by hand, and this coffee lover has a new appreciation for her favorite treat.

Handed down by Dalton’s ancestors, the Finca Filadelfia has recently added a luxury 20-room boutique hotel that features beautifully decorated rooms with vaulted-ceilings, automatic black-out shades, wood-burning fireplaces and pampers guest with Egyptian and Italian linens and fluffy robes. Imagine all that plus a morning spent relaxing with a cup of freshly ground coffee out on your patio, surrounded by gardens, overlooking the outdoor pool and Jacuzzi.

Great for a romantic getaway, the resort is also perfect for family adventures, corporate retreats and large events. Group discounts are available, and the hotel is currently offering special-package pricing. “We love to help people organize their wedding party,” says hotel manager Carmen Córdova, “and, we can accommodate over 1,500 people for events.” From airport pickup to babysitters and wedding photographers, Carmen can help you to plan and organize the perfect party.

Offering fine dining, casual meals and fantastic catering, Chef Mario Miralles, who has cooked for Bill Gates and Arabian princes, is adding his signature style to Antigua’s food scene. La Pérgola de la Montaña is the finca’s most recent restaurant. Located high up on one of the property’s mountains and only open Sundays, it is a fabulous place to go for brunch. Leave your car at the base and catch a free shuttle to one of the best views around. Another option is the Cafetenengo, which features traditional Guatemala fare. Last but not least, Chef Mario has combined his creativity and experience and designed an exciting new menu at Pergaminos. With his focus on using quality Guatemalan ingredients, French techniques and Thai finishes, the food alone is worth making a trip to the Filadelfia Coffee Resort.

For more information visit www.filadelfiaresort.com

Guatemala’s second (and maybe best) city

written by Blake Nelson

I spent my first year out of college teaching in Puerto Cortés, Honduras, and a typical conversation went like this:

LOCAL: Do you like living here?
ME: I love it!
LOCAL: Really? I don’t.
ME: Let’s change the subject!

After to moving to Quetzaltenango (commonly known as Xela, from the Mayan Xelajú), I was struck by another recurring conversation:

EX-PAT: How long do you think you’ll stay here?
ME: I don’t know.
EX-PAT: I was only supposed to stay for 10 days… that was in 1979.
My wife and I quickly found out why. Xela draws you in for all the right reasons. My former statement about Honduras wasn’t a total lie (what was I supposed to say?), but there’s something about this city that makes you want to stay a while.

Xela is the Goldilocks of Central America: Everything is just right. It’s big but not massive, cold but not freezing, set apart but not isolated.

Europeans come for Xela’s world-renowned language schools; indigenous women sell the freshest pineapples you could ask for; and ladino teenagers in skinny jeans frequent the clubs that dot downtown.

It’s also a good headquarters in the Highlands: Nearby are day hikes (Volcán de Santa María is a gorgeous, if grueling, climb); resorts and hostels (IRTRA and La Unión de Santa Anita provide two extremes); Mayan ruins; and zip-lining. So, there’s a good chance you’ll extend your layover a few extra days—if not months or years.

In the 19th century, Xela was battling with Guatemala City for national supremacy after losing its fight to be Central America’s independent “sixth state.” Xela is sort of Guatemala’s Texas; it rivaled the capital in size, scope and cultural importance—until an earthquake in 1902 leveled the place. Yet the damage was a mixed blessing, for Xela has largely escaped overpopulation, violent crime and urban sprawl.

“In the area are day hikes, resorts, hostels, water parks, Mayan ruins, language schools, zip lines and plenty more.”

Xela now prides itself as Guatemala’s cultural capital, and the attractive mix of Spanish colonial architecture with a Greco-Roman flair won’t let you forget it.

A walking tour of the city is interesting, but the cemetery deserves a special highlight. On Day of the Dead (Nov. 1) last year my uncle finally succumbed to a multi-year battle with Lou Gehrig’s disease, and I considered canceling a planned visit to the cemetery to watch locals fly kites. I’m glad I didn’t.

Walking between mausoleums—designed as mini-cathedrals, Egyptian pyramids and the White House (!)—amidst thousands of people who were also remembering their loved ones was both healing and unforgettable. Even if you’re not there on the 1st of November, make sure to block out an hour or two to appreciate the kaleidoscope of colored tombs that stretches for miles.

With so many sites and activities to choose from in and around Xela, you’ll enjoy losing yourself in one of the country’s best cities.

For Quetzaltenango and the Highlands travel information, package tours and more visit www.adrenalinatours.com or your local travel and tour operator.

photos by Harry Díaz www.flickr.com/harrydiaz

I left my favorite shirt on a hammock in Monterrico

text/photos by Tanya Hughes

Guatemala is a magical place. I came here the first time on a brief holiday that started on the Caribbean coast of Mexico and took me through Belize and finally into Guatemala. I was impressed with Tikal and Petén, but I immediately fell in love with La Antigua Guatemala.

The unique energy that has captured so many hearts called to me once I had returned to Canada, and in less than two years I left my career and my Vancouver home to return here.

Now with more time to explore, I based myself in Antigua and then headed out. First stop, Monterrico. If you haven’t been to the Pacific coast of Guatemala, pack your bags. Armed with my favorite book, I planned a two-night stay that turned into seven days.

The volcanic black-sand beach stretches out for miles of beauty and tranquility. If you want real peace and quiet, this is the place—during the week, that is. Weekends light up with tourists and Guatemalans alike, sun seekers looking for their own brand of stress relief, and there is nothing quiet about it.

Combined with what may be the most beautiful sunsets I have seen anywhere, there really is something for everyone in Monterrico. Just don’t use your favorite shirt as a hammock pillow and then leave it there when your shuttle arrives!

Next stop, Lake Atitlán. I did not have time to visit the lake during my first trip to Guatemala, and based on recommendations from friends, I headed for San Marcos.

Arriving at night and without a hotel reservation, I wandered to several places only to find everything booked. Some children happily walked me to a few places in hopes of receiving a tip, and I finally found a beautiful lakefront room. It was well out of my backpacker budget range, but I had to shake my head when I realized that I had paid more for a parking space at the last U.S. hotel where I stayed.

Off to explore after a tranquil morning coffee on my patio, I discovered that this tiny town houses unique holistic and spiritual centers, offering crystal aura cleanings, massages, yoga and spiritual classes ranging from a day to three months. San Marcos also has what ended up as my favorite restaurant in Guatemala so far.

Not to forget the lake itself, where for under Q20 you can hit the water to visit neighboring towns for more exploration and totally different vibes. Horseback riding, kayaking and some of the best markets in Guatemala are easily within reach.

If you’re just into relaxing, ask in San Marcos where to get one of Brad’s famous tequila concoctions that are guaranteed to bring you to another level of consciousness in no time.

Quetzaltenango was a different experience altogether. This fast-paced city is also centered around a central park but has a very different feel than its sister city, Antigua. First off, bring a jacket. Bask in the hot sun by day and settle into one of the happening nightspots to keep warm at night. If you’re the adventurous and athletic type, I suggest trying the overnight full moon volcano hike. Just be sure to bundle up.

With a sigh of comfort and relief, I returned to my Antigua apartment. I loved my expedition but Antigua truly is my favorite place in Guatemala. 

Every day is a new adventure, finding yet another ancient ruin, or a great restaurant set in beautiful gardens hidden behind a tiny wooden doorway. There is no shortage of unexpected treasures and beauty. People from all over the world and all walks of life are drawn here. If this is your first visit, I’m sure it won’t be your last.

Horseback riding, kayaking and some of the best markets in Guatemala are easily withing reach at the lake.

Semuc Champey (photo by Thor Janson)

written by Carla Berryhill photos: Thor Janson

I had heard of Semuc Champey and its pools of turquoise water, but I had no idea just how stunning this destination would really be.

My very dear friend, Richard, planned a trip for me to the eastern side of Guatemala. I had not done much traveling in Guatemala yet, so I was looking forward to a week of exploring this beautiful country.

He took me to some absolutely incredible places such as Quiriguá, Río Dulce and Lívingston … but the biggest surprise was Semuc Champey. And as Richard had wanted, it was a complete surprise—he wouldn’t even allow me to do any internet research or let anyone tell me about it. He wanted to see my reaction as I entered the park and saw it for the first time.

I’m glad he had me see it this way; it is something I will never ever forget. I think my jaw dropped to the ground when I saw the pools of Semuc Champey!

We took an early morning shuttle from Río Dulce to Lanquín that took six hours because the route we took was nothing but a dirt road, winding its way through the mountains into Alta Verapaz. The farther we went the more excited I got because the scenery took my breath away—lush, green mountains with small pueblos still untouched by tourism. I was in cacao and cardamom country—amazing to see. We drove by homes where the children would run after the shuttle, giggling and pointing while yelling “gringos” at the top of their lungs.

It was dark by the time we arrived at Lanquín and the lodge at Semuc Champey, so unfortunately I had to wait one more night to see what was in store. But I got the sense it was something special.

We woke early to a perfect, sunny day and walked the short distance to the park entrance. The breeze was warm and scented with the rich, fresh smell of a mountain forest. The park is well marked with easy trails and many informative signs. We took a path that comes close to the Cahabón River and then suddenly opens up to the most amazing pools I have ever seen. In all there are 14 pools on a natural bridge that the river has cut out over thousands of years.

The river runs swiftly under the bridge, but the mountain-fed pools on the bridge are calm, blue and almost surreal in their clarity. I saw at least four different species of fish without even trying. The pools cascade down into each other, surrounded by a variety of small, colorful flowers and greenery.

The water is not deep but you can jump right in and swim in most of the pools. One of the larger pools feeds into another, and you can ride down a natural water slide cut out of rock. A little bumpy, but fun! You should get to the pools early. We arrived at 8:30 a.m. and didn’t see any other visitors until after 10 or so. We had the pools to ourselves—what a treat!

After your swim you should climb up to the mirador. Not the easiest of climbs but if you take the new trail up, the one nearest the pools, there are wooden stairs and handrails to make it easier. The old trail is difficult and slippery. Either way, it’s worth the effort because you can see the entire river valley; the view of Semuc Champey from above is spectacular.

I will never forget my time in Semuc Champey but I do plan on returning. Tranquil, lush, blue and beautiful, this is one of Guatemala’s gems. As I travel more in this country, I’m able to see how many natural treasures there are in this amazing place that I now call home.

With its black-sand beaches, powerful waves and sea turtle nesting grounds, Monterrico has been ranked among the 10 Best Beach Destinations in the World by Yahoo Travel.
Guatemala’s quaint, south coast community joins the ranks of Ka’anapali, Maui, Hawaii; Hahei Beach, New Zealand; and Sanur Beach, Bali, in Yahoo’s global hit list of beaches to visit in 2011.

“When it comes to something a bit different, our readers recommend the black volcanic sands of Monterrico, Guatemala,” according to the Yahoo Travel scribes.

“Located on the Pacific coast, Monterrico differs from the calm waters and soft sands of other popular vacation spots—its powerful waves are suitable for only the strongest swimmers,” the description continues.

“Aside from the challenging surf, most people come to see the endangered sea turtles that use the beach as a nesting ground. You might even catch a glimpse of the newly-hatched offspring during your visit. The small fishing village of Monterrico provides plenty of options for inexpensive accommodations and restaurants.”

Atop the list was Anse Lazio, Seychelles. Other destinations in the Top 10 are Playa Norte, Isla Mujeres, Mexico; Santa Rosa Beach, Florida, USA; Cas Abao Beach, Curacao; Santa Marta, Colombia; and Coronado Beach, San Diego, California, USA.

To help plan your Monterrico getaway go to: www.visitmonterrico.com

Cucuruchus, Semana Santa photos by Leonel -Nelo- Mijangos (nelo.ws)

• Plan ahead and allow plenty of time. Know the times and locations of the velaciones and processions. City Hall provides free pamphlets for all the Sunday Lent and Semana Santa processions. Available at booths in Central Park, the pamphlets give the times and processional routes.
• I usually allow for a couple of hours to see the carpet making before the procession leaves its church. The most beautiful carpets are often closest to the church that hosts the procession. There are usually carpets all along the procession route, so I can also catch some carpet making later in the day. Then take a break.
• Processions usually take about 12 hours. Depending on the time of day or night, I locate a good corner and get on the right-hand side of the Christ figure. The sculpture is best appreciated when He looks at you. All Christ figures (except in the children’s procession from the cathedral) look to the right-hand side. Corners are great so I can see the carriers (men called cucuruchos and women called cargadoras) change turns with precision. It usually takes a full hour to see the entire procession go by and then, instead of trying the beat the crowds, I can easily walk away from the procession.
• Do not take anything of value to velaciones or processions. Pickpockets work the crowds seamlessly. No passports. No credit cards. I usually put a camera around my neck and pack a few quetzales and then go back to my home or hotel afterward when I decide to go out again for a meal.
• The advantage of staying in Antigua to enjoy the largest celebration in the world is that I can pace myself. It is truly an incredible time of the year!

Traveling on horseback allows a visitor time to absorb the natural beauty and imagine what life was like here 100 years ago.

text and photos by Linda Green Roesch

Want a really different Guatemalan adventure, far off the beaten tourist track? Try a trip to the spectacular Sierra de los Cuchumatanes mountains in Guatemala’s Highlands, the highest non-volcanic mountain range in Central America.

We arrived at the rustic, comfortable Posada El Unicornio Azul near the town of Chiantla in the area of Chancol in late afternoon after a five-hour drive from La Antigua. This is a perfect base camp for two or three days of exploring. The lodge is rustic, comfortable and clean, with hot showers (welcome in the cold climate at this altitude).
We joined other visitors at the inn around a wood stove in the great room and enjoyed a glass of wine and some local cheese as we planned the next few days of our adventure. Options included horseback riding on beautifully conditioned and cared for horses, guided or unguided hikes of different durations and difficulties, and mountain biking on your own bikes or the lodge’s rental bikes.

Over a hearty dinner served family style, hosts Paulina and Fernando helped us decide on a horseback ride the next day. After dinner, some guests played cards or board games, while others read books. At bedtime, we were each given a hot-water bottle to tuck under the thick, woolly Momostenango blankets and warm the bed.

The farm is an excellent base for many nearby excursions, including an archaeological site, small waterfall and lagoon. The beautiful Laguna de Yolnab is close by and you can also visit another spectacular site, Ojo Cimmaron.

The next morning dawned crisp and cold. After a hot breakfast, we mounted our horses, each chosen and matched according to our riding ability, and set off for a ride through dry, stony, high mountain steppes on grassy “roads” lined with piled rocks sprouting thorny agaves.

The trails we rode are designed for foot or animal traffic, not cars. We passed through spectacular countryside, traversing wild, seemingly untouched areas only to round a bend and encounter a tiny “cantón” consisting of two or three adobe dwellings with tile roofs.

Groups of sheep are herded from one pasture to another, generally by children or women. There are scattered cattle and horses, and even a llama or two. It is charmingly pastoral and peaceful. Traveling on horseback (or hiking) allows a visitor time to absorb the natural beauty and imagine what life was like 100 years ago in Guatemala— it has changed very little.

Our second day we arranged for a five-hour guided hike. Fernando dropped us off with our guide at the peak of La Torre—at 3,800 meters, it’s the highest non-volcanic peak in Central America. We walked through magnificent open plains, scrubby, bonsai-like cypress forests, past moraine lakes, and ended up at the spectacular Puerta del Cielo viewpoint, with vistas stretching to Mexico.

Traveling north from El Unicornio to Nentón, about 2½ hours from Huehuetenango, visitors can stay at the Posada Rural Finca Chaculá, a huge farm that belongs to a cooperative of 210 families representing five ethnic groups—returnees from Mexico after the civil war ended. The families were relocated on the farm, opening it for tourism, generating jobs and economic stability for themselves. This area lies at about 1,100 meters, so is considerably warmer.

The finca, or farm house, is original, with thick walls and a typical roof. It was remodeled a year ago by the cooperative, keeping its charm but adding amenities for visitor comfort. The farm is an excellent base for many nearby excursions, including an archaeological site, small waterfall and lagoon. For good walkers, the beautiful Laguna de Yolnab is close by (11 km. by car, or a 2½-hour walk). You can also visit the another spectacular site, Ojo Cimmaron, a cenote (sinkhole), 150 meters deep and 175 meters wide, with a forest growing at its base. Tours can be arranged to visit Lago Montebello to see sacred caves and prehistoric paintings. The guides are local and are trained by INGUAT.

Both inns belong to the network of Posadas Rurales de Guatemala. Posada Finca Chaculá is independent from Unicornio Azul but receives technical support from Paulina and Fernando. Recommended minimum stay in each area is two days and three nights. Find rates and more information at www.unicornioazul.com

How to get there

El Unicornio Azul
Take the turn to Chiantla and “la cumbre” from the Pan American Highway (before arriving in Huehue). The road is paved. Climb steeply for 12 km and pass El Mirador. After about 1 km the road flattens, and you will pass a small community called La Capellanía. Leave the main road here and take the gravel road to the right for 6 kms. Watch for blue signs with arrows indicating El Unicornio Azul. The property lies nestled in rock hills at the end of a large plain. If in doubt, ask anyone for Chancol, Fernando and Paulina, or “the horses.”

Posada Finca Chaculá
Drive about 2½ hours (160 km) north of Huehuetenango on the Pan American Highway. Take the paved road from Camojá, drive through Nentón until you reach the crossroad to Gracias a Dios/Carmen Xan, desviándose a little below Trinidad. Drive 11 km toward Laguna Brava, passing Las Palmas y Chaculá. You can also reach the Posada from Todos Santos Cuchumatán.

Climate / What to Wear

Temperatures in the Cuchumatanes can drop to below zero (F) at night during the coldest months (November to January), rising to the low 70s during the day. Dress in layers, and bring a windbreaker or rain jacket. Sturdy walking shoes are a must, and a hat, gloves and scarf can be handy. Make sure to pack sunscreen, as it is easy to burn at such a high altitude.

The climate is more temperate in Chaculá due to its lower altitude.

Thrilling the crowd below, the dancers spin around the pole as their ropes unravel with every turn, lowering them closer and closer to the ground in a death-defying ritual.

Home of one of Central America’s largest indigenous markets, Chichicastenango is at its liveliest this month because Dec. 21 is the feast day of its patron saint, Santo Tomás.

Festivities run Dec. 17-22 and include parades, processions, fireworks and traditional dances, most notably the palo volador (pole flyer). In the palo volador ceremony, the trunk of a tall pine tree is consecrated and raised in the plaza; costumed dancers climb to the top and attach themselves to ropes.

Thrilling the crowd below, the dancers spin around the pole as their ropes unravel with every turn, lowering them closer and closer to the ground in a death-defying ritual.

The focal point of the festival is the historic church of Santo Tomás, opposite the market. If you enter the church, however, don’t use the side doors—it is regarded as disrespectful.

A glimpse of the church interior reveals a mix of Catholic and Maya culture, especially evident during the festival.

A stop in Chichi is a must for any traveler, but a visit during the vibrant celebrations of Santo Tomás will be especially memorable.

Each time I visit—which is often—I learn more of the secret of Tapachula’s success. Most recently, this happened when I absentmindedly made a purchase with a Q20 bill, instead of a 20-peso note. The change was in pesos, but it seemed that the cashier had given me too much. When I pointed this out, she did not give me an “oh-thanks-for-catching-the-mistake” look, but a “what’s-your-problem-and-can’t-you-see-I’m-busy” look.

“You gave me Q20, right?” she asked. Yeah, I wanted to say. But aren’t we in Mexico? “Oops,” is what I really said. “Never mind.”

This took place in a big store with an obvious appetite for Guatemalan currency. But small stores, hotels, taxis and internet cafés also take it. Even beggars seem to know how to put your quetzales to work.

I have come to think of Guatemala, rather than Tapachula itself, as the thing that is chula. Not that this city itself is not chula; it kind of is. But it is also the lid that federal Mexico puts on Central America. This is why the immigration officials at the border want to know where you are going. Just Tapachula, or some point beyond? If only the former, then you need not fill out a tourist card if you are from, say, the U.S. or Belgium or Australia. Guatemalans must do a little paperwork, but not much, considering they are entering a country that makes extreme efforts to keep the tapa on Central Americans who would go north, sneak into the United States, and compete for jobs there with Mexican nationals.

So that is why my friend Raquel Eunice Barrios, when asked if she has ever traveled abroad, responded, “No. I’ve only been to Tapachula, nada más.” She is only the latest Guatemalan to tell me this. But going to Tapachula really is legally going abroad, if not by much.

Owing to Mexican pragmatism, Tapachula has been put within reach of everyday Guatemalans. The Guatemalans can set foot in another country, and maybe buy something there, without going farther or—as it were—leaking from the “lid.” For them, it is a token foray into something mildly extraordinary.

In parallel fashion, my own father-in-law (also a Guatemalan) discovered years ago that he could experience a boat ride for a nominal fee. He was past 80 and had never been on a boat, but for Q5 he could enjoy a 23-minute lancha pública cruise that crosses Panajachel’s small bay and back. This is day tourism in Lake Atitlán, designed expressly for people like himself. Well, now he’s been here, done that.

So it is, then, with visits by Guatemalans to Cute Lid City. Maybe I will take my father-in-law there, too.

But the perception that Tapachula is Guatemalan—in the sense that going there is not quite going to Mexico (or not quite leaving Guatemala)—goes deeper than wiping one’s feet on the welcome mat put out by Mexican pragmatism. Tapachula is, or once was, itself Guatemalan—sort of. And Guatemalans are today reclaiming it.

The city is de facto capital of a region of Chiapas State called Soconusco, a slab of territory, about half the size of El Salvador, in the extreme southeast of Mexico.

Following the war of independence from Spain in 1821, all of Central America was briefly part of the Mexican Empire. But only Chiapas was ultimately absorbed by Mexico. Yet Soconusco, via plebiscite, attempted to annex itself from Chiapas (and Mexico) to Guatemala in 1824. Guatemala accepted this, but in another plebiscite in 1840, Soconusco reverted to Chiapas.

Guatemalan teachers still tell kids that the voting was irregular, and thus Soconusco was wrongly wrested from their country. Possibly all true. And yet Soconusco, conquered province that it might be, is today one of the most prosperous parts of Mexico. Indeed, it is a counterpoint even to the rest of Chiapas, which is consistently near the bottom among Mexico’s 32 states in social indicators. Kind of like Mississippi in the U.S., Sicily in Italy, or Mecklenberg in Germany.

The focus of this prosperity is, of couse, the region’s pearl, Tapachula. Unlike so many border cities, it is a draw for reasons other than its siting. I have always found ports and border towns to be grubby places, full of people you would like to avoid: smugglers, pimps, petty thieves, corrupt officials. But Tapachula, though its tourism assets remain limited, is a city with clear skin and nuclear-family domesticity.

It is also, due apparently to the same official pragmatism that allows Tapachula to be open to Central Americans, a place where very many Guatemalans actually find long-term work, without being pursued by the local Migra. As near as I can tell, the rules for Guatemalans who work there are just as lax for Guatemalans who visit. So it is that reclamation is under way. There will never, obviously, be another plebiscite, much less a political secession for Soconusco. But reconquest, on subtler levels, is under way.

A juice bar that my sons and I always visit is staffed solely by Guatemalan women. We know their names, and they ours, and they know what to make for us when we order “the usual.” They always ask us about things “back home.” One thing I tell them is that jobs there are not, for the moment, easy to get. They nod in a way that tells me that they will not soon be returning to Guatemala.

Then again, maybe they have never really left.

Lake Petén Itza by Harris and Goller viaventure.com

A quiet place to stay for a El Petén adventure

Halfway between Flores and Tikal, El Remate is a quaint, centrally located community within easy reach of breathtaking ruins, mysterious caves, birdwatching, swimming and more.

Nestled along the eastern shore of Lago Petén Itzá, El Remate provides a variety of lodging and dining choices, plus scenic vistas of the lake and its famous formation: Cerro Cahuí (Crocodile Hill), with a silhouette resembling a giant croc gliding on the lake.

In addition to Tikal, just 33 kilometers away, these destinations, among others, are within easy reach of El Remate:

• Biotopo Cerro Cahuí, a tropical rainforest of some 700 hectares. Noted for its birdwatching, this hilly destination also offers scenic views of Lago Petén Itzá amid the lush vegetation. It’s also an important watershed for the lake.
• Actún Kan, a serpentine formation of limestone caves. Watch for bats as you enter this humid, slippery world of stalactites and stalagmites. (see page 106)
• Parque Natural Ixpanpajul, a 450-hectare forest with 200 species of trees, 150 species of birds and around 40 species of mammals. A favorite attraction is the zip-line ride known as the Tarzan Tour.
• Petencito Zoo, with a collection of jaguars, monkeys, macaws and other native wildlife.

Caves of Actún Kan live up to its mysterious lore

Etched by nature and bathed in mystique, the winding network of caves known as Actún Kan in Petén truly earned its place in Mayan legend as the Cave of the Serpent’s Mouth.

Bats fluttered out of the gaping entrance as we traipsed in, flashlights ready. Though we witnessed no snakes, it’s easy to see why the Maya regarded caves to be sacred entrances to the underworld—the realm of serpents in several religions.

The twisting passages of Actún Kan rise and fall in a silent world of toothy stalactites and stalagmites, which toy with the imagination in this slippery, subterranean space.

Just a few kilometers from the Flores airport, the caves uncoil deep beneath the Cerro de la Serpiente (Serpent Hill) in the town of Santa Elena. Visitors can easily include Actún Kan on their itinerary to Tikal, Yaxhá and the other archaeological marvels of Petén.

A word of caution at Actún Kan: Watch your head! My baseball cap was no protection against the low ceilings that I always managed to hit, no matter how low I crouched as we happily fumbled from one chamber to the next.

Lighted softly by an electric bulb or two, each chamber holds unique surprises, many of which have been aptly nicknamed, such as La Pata del Elefante (The Elephant’s Foot) and La Cola de la Ballena (The Whale’s Tail).
In all 33 interesting formations have nicknames, but every limestone sculpture or dripping crystalline shape is a marvel, whether rising from the damp floor or descending from vaults reaching as high as 40 meters.

With my bruised and scratched head, I sometimes stayed behind to investigate roomier chambers while my friends bent and crouched through low, connecting tunnels into the farther reaches of Actún Kan.

Given the twists and turns, I was sure we were backtracking after a while. Thankfully, our entourage included two youngsters— ages 13 and 10. With an appetite for exploring, they pointed us in the right direction. (Thank you, Jeffrey and Sebastian!)

The self-guided tour takes about an hour, but you can easily spend more time exploring this mysterious baja landia. Bring a flashlight or rent one (or two) at the entrance.

Lake Atitlan (photo by Jack Houston)

Turning a short visit into a long-lasting memory

Volcanoes. Lakes. Archeology and architecture. History and culture. Ziplines. Coffee plantations. UNESCO World Heritage sites. Plus, of course, shopping. Guatemala has all these attractions for tourism. But what about the tourist who has only a few days and less than $300? Yes, with planning and time management, that tourist can have a comprehensive Guatemala experience.

As an example, a well-established tour company recently offered a four-night package that begins on Friday night at a four-star hotel near the airport in Guatemala City. After included airport pick-up, travelers are on their own for the day. Depending on arrival time, they might opt for a visit to the historic center or artisans’ market or maybe just recoup at the hotel pool.

The package includes a sumptuous buffet breakfast before Saturday 9 a.m. departure for La Antigua, with commentary along the way for a group of about 10. First stop is a hotel-museum where the guide points out the old and the new, revealing restoration of the Dominican monastery established in the 16th century. By this time cameras are out clicking at burial places, colonial kitchen facilities, fountain and gardens.

A short walk leads to a workshop for a talk on the discovery of jade in Guatemala. After a shot of coffee and a few minutes to shop, the walk continues, toward Volcano Agua with a brief history along the way about the founding of the town in 1542. There’s a visit to the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro, Central America’s first and to-date only saint, at the San Francisco Church, and the cameras keep clicking.

The van is waiting for a drive across town—without stops to ensure staying on schedule—past Central Park, the Cathedral and Palace of the Captains General, then on to the La Merced Church. Following must-take photos of the baroque façade, there’s a visit inside to see the 17th century Jesús Nazareno image viewed in procession by thousands every Good Friday, a look at the monastery fountain, the largest in Central America, and then it’s up to the terrace for a birds’ eye view of the town.

Almost gratefully, the group boards the van for Chichicastenango, glad for time to check photos and process images in their heads before a lunch break at Tecpán—where some hardcore shoppers escape and forfeit food for shopping.

After comfortable and quick check-in at the Chichicastenango inn, conveniently located near the Santo Tomás Church and market, each one does his own thing: wander through the gardens and the town, visit the church, people-watch with coffee…or get a head start on shopping. After choosing a simple or not-so-simple dinner, tired travelers cozy-up by stone fireplaces in rooms furnished with antiques and stocked with wood and candles, reviewing a full day, a full camera and fast-filling-up shopping bags before snuggling under welcome woolen blankets for the night.

Waiters in typical dress serve Sunday breakfast. The market is beginning to bustle, and flower-filled steps of the church lure visitors inside to incense-scented ceremony. But the van leaves at 11, so there’s no time to dawdle. Following a flurry of sights, smells and sounds, satisfied shoppers head for Panajachel, enjoying lush highland scenery along the way.

With wise planning the van bypasses the shopping and heads straight for a launch to take the 10 to the lakeside village of Santa Catarina, where they experience distinctive blue-and-green crafts and clothing. A terrace lunch refuels, with time to absorb the beauty of Lake Atitlán before returning to Guatemala City.

Early evening arrival back at the hotel offers time to reorganize, choose among many close-by dinner options and reflect on another full day, getting a grip on the fact that arrival here was only one night ago, and there’s only one day left with this package. That day is free to spend as each traveler chooses.

Some leave early for an optional one-day trip to Tikal and back. Some choose to climb active Volcano Pacaya and are picked up after that bountiful buffet breakfast. Yet others get a cab to Constitution Square to spend the day freestyle, visiting the Metropolitan Cathedral, the National Palace and the old Post Office, stopping for lunch in a historic hotel. Other options include the zoo, the Ethnic or History and Archeology Museum or a guided tour of the city. Of course there’s the market, or one might choose to spend the day soaking up the sun poolside at the hotel. Whatever the choice, the day—and the tour—is over all too soon.

One last evening and night, one last buffet breakfast and then it’s off to the airport. It was for sure a whirlwind tour. There’s much more to enjoy in Guatemala, and certainly any of the sites in this sample tour deserve more time. But when time and budget are limited, yes, it is possible to get a pretty good idea about what Guatemala has to offer and whet the appetite for a return visit.

photos by Jack Houston

Ruins of Inca citadel at Machu Picchu

Guatemala to Machu Picchu

“Surprise followed surprise in bewildering succession… Suddenly we found ourselves standing in front of the ruins of two of the finest and most interesting structures in ancient America. Made of beautiful white granite, the walls contained blocks of Cyclopean size higher than a man. The sight held me spellbound…The building did not look as though it ever had a roof…so the sun could be welcomed here by priests and mummies. I could scarcely believe my senses…Would anyone believe what I had found?”

The place now known as Machu Picchu had rested undisturbed for three centuries when Hiram Bingham recorded his discoveries in July 1911 (Lost City of the Incas). Today one of the world’s wonders, Machu Picchu welcomes half a million visitors a year.

Machu Picchu is not exactly in the neighborhood of Guatemala. But when one has come this far, it’s a logical link, historically speaking. In 1533 when the Spanish conquered the ancient Inca capital of Cuzco, Peru, the jumping off point for a Machu Picchu visit, they were also building their own capital in Almolonga, Guatemala, on the skirts of Volcano Agua. Three years later the Inca king slipped out from under Spanish domination, packed up his people’s golden treasures and left Cuzco to relocate the royal seat in the remote, fortified mountain sanctuary of his ancestors.

The Spanish succeeded in forcing the Inca from the royal hide-out in 1572 and displayed the king’s head on a pole on the plaza of Cuzco. By that time Almolonga had been destroyed by a furious flood, and the Guatemala contingent was busy building Santiago de los Caballeros, now La Antigua. Spanish King Charles V had had enough and abdicated in 1556, turning the whole thing over to Philip II who never looked back.

The citadel of the last Inca was of no matter, its secret existence buried safely under the shadow of Machu Picchu and blankets of vegetation until historical and geographical curiosity reawakened in the 1800s. “The sanctuary was lost for centuries because this ridge is in the most inaccessible corner of the most inaccessible section of the central Andes,” wrote Bingham. When discovered the ruins took the name of the mountain “because no one knew what else to call them.”

Inca civilization has generally been defined by what the Spanish found, but probably dates back thousands of years, the empire to around 1200. But by the time the Spanish arrived it had passed its prime, weakened by civil war. Its history has been shrouded in mystery, partly due to lack of a written record. It seems writing had long since been banned based on the belief that letters caused pestilence. Augustinian monks managed to reach the vicinity of the royal retreat and tried in vain to persuade the Inca to accept Christianity. Their writings fill in some gaps about the last days of the empire.

What cannot be denied is that the ancient Inca were excellent engineers. They built roads through the Andes from Ecuador to Argentina and Chile, bridges of braided vine over mile-deep gorges, amazing agricultural terraces and phenomenal water systems. Bingham returned for fur-

ther explorations in 1912 and 1914-15, sponsored by Yale University and National Geographic Society, painstakingly removing obstacle after obstacle. Still a puzzle, more recent discoveries tell more about the end than the beginning.

Today’s traveler from Guatemala typically flies to Lima, about six hours, and then another hour and a half to Cuzco on an early morning flight. The altitude of 11,000 feet might call for adjustment, overnight rest and lots of coca tea. No problem there: Cuzco itself begs exploration, its narrow ancient Inca lanes laced with Spanish influence, its architecture, plazas and convents, its culture spoken through crafts and a brewery, the modern version of an ancient custom and, along with tourism, Cuzco’s main industry.
The three-hour train trip from Cuzco to Machu Picchu departs from stations about half an hour from the town.

The trip ends at the town of Machu Picchu, near Aguas Calientes, at the foot of the mountain. From there buses run every 15 minutes, climbing round and round straight up (it seems) to the top and there the entrance to the sanctuary, where the altitude is only 7,000 feet. After a guided tour of several hours or all day, visitors zig-zag down the mountain for the night or the return train to Cuzco.

Hardy hikers trek, instead, for three or four days, through some of the world’s most beautiful scenery.

Both tracks and trails pass a constantly changing panorama, majestic precipices rising thousands of feet, luxuriant foliage, snow-capped peaks, rugged mountains and rushing river rapids, so close to simple farms and pastoral terraces it seems one could reach out and touch them. Bingham was right: the word is ‘indescribable.’

Nor do words do justice to the magnificent sanctuary itself. Terraces with irrigation ditches and grazing llama, stairways carved out of rock, temples, astronomical research sites. This was a place for the royal family and those who served it, who opened their hands and threw kisses to honor the sun.

Peruvians have done a first-class job of packaging their product and orchestrating the implementation for virtually every level of travel. Trains range from backpacker to deluxe-all-the-way on the Hiram Bingham Orient Express Train, with polished wood,

live music and an open-air caboose club car. Accommodations include tents for hikers and five-star hotels, among them one built on the old Dominican monastery in Cuzco, originally site of an Inca palace, and Sanctuary Lodge at the entrance to the ruins (the only way to overnight at the top)—and everything in-between.

Best time to visit is now, the dry season, between May and November. To avoid disappointment, planning ahead is necessary, especially purchase of train tickets. Researching the Peruvian websites is time well spent.

Whatever the preference or the budget, Machu Picchu promises an unforgettable and haunting experience.

(Machu Picchu is open for tourism again, following January flood repairs.)

photos by Jack Houston

text and photos by Brent Holmes

This mighty, pre-classic city flourished hundreds of years before more famous classic sites such as Tikal. It was bigger by far. “The designation ‘classic’ should really apply to the pre-classic sites. Those classic guys never built anything like this,” says Dr. Richard D. Hansen “The Olmec, rather than the mother civilization of Mesoamerica, are now better considered a sister.”

I finally made my dream trip, by helicopter, to El Mirador. Thirty-five minutes by air vs. three days walking and/or mule ride makes the trip feasible for someone like me, not a lot of time, out of shape and pushing 68! Our group of 12 was ferried by chopper in lots of four from Flores Petén to the site. Dr. Hansen acted as our guide for the next 24 hours and gave generously of his knowledge and time. His passion is contagious. So far he has spent 25 years on El Mirador. He was a great host, even giving up his bungalow to five of the visitors while he slept in a tent.

El Mirador is one of the most significant Mayan sites and a must visit for those of us who are so fanatic about our studies of the Maya. Why is it so special?

For starters, El Mirador covers 38 square miles; it is larger than the city of Los Angeles. The temples at El Mirador are huge. El Tigre is larger than all of Tikal’s temples 1, 2, the acropolis and the central plaza—combined!

The El Mirador basin is larger still, encompassing territory northward beyond the Mexican border. It includes some 51 other cities, to name a few: Nakbe, Tintal, Paixsbán, Xucnal and Wakna, all pre-classic locations. Many cities in the basin were connected to El Mirador by a road system, sacbes. The roads are magnificent examples of the engineering skills of the Maya. They were 15 feet high and 120 feet wide, made of limestone and thickly plastered in white. You can see these roads by air, long straight lines with the foliage slightly elevated over the surrounding jungle. The walking/mule path route into El Mirador utilizes sacbes. A path was cut through the vegetation for man and mule using the base of the sacbes. This is a trip Dr. Hansen says he has made at least 200 times. The project has 126 mules that pack in supplies on a continuous basis.

The idea was to arrive at the summit and watch the sunset. We were late. On descent twilight quickly turned into pitch black. Most had flashlights. I did not. The path consists of partly wood stairs, a rope, vines, loose rocks and small tree stumps, two inches by six inches or so. My fellows tried to help, shining the light and calling out warnings, but, of course I slipped. I rolled sideways; I grabbed and started to roll downward but was caught by a fellow climber, averting a chain reaction affecting eight others below me. I did make it safely down but lost whatever ego I had on the way up.

We were rewarded by a visit to the adjacent Structure #34. This is a small temple that has been extensively tunneled. A string of ceiling lights, powered by a portable generator, provided light throughout the tunnel. I entered the tunnel behind Dr. Hansen. We were given hard hats, and it took about five seconds before the first crash onto the low ceiling. I was told to turn left and keep going until told to stop. “Do you see the stairs?” “Yes,” I replied, but I said I had no desire to go up them. No problem, he just wanted us to see the stairs of the original temple inside the temple. It was hot, humid, and if you had any claustrophobia, it was over-the-top challenging. All in single file, we turned around in the very narrow, low-ceilinged, not-shored-up tunnel and proceeded in the opposite direction. The group ahead of me (I was now in the rear) sort of crouch-walked past the entrance path. I smelled fresh air and decided I could miss the rest of the tunnel tour. The group stayed another 30 minutes, saw the temple inside the temple, with swimming carrying his father’s head, returning from the underworld. The frieze is of limestone and plaster, all covered with a pure white powder. But when Dr. Hansen wet his finger and touched the powder, a blood-red color came through. This monument was painted red, as was almost all in the city. The frieze is in nearly perfect condition and deserves a permanent protective covering, or a building to house it. Cost is $150,000. Donations gratefully accepted!

The next morning the group split up. We were four who wanted to visit Tikal. So together with Dr. Hansen we took the first flight out. He pointed out the sacbes and other cities that appeared as mere bumps on the distant landscape. He showed us the cleared areas that were actually bajos or swamps, as the Maya had encountered 2,600 years ago and made into fertile agricultural fields. He showed us massive present-day deforestation, the illegal encroachment into the park for lumbering or cattle grazing (narco cattle he called them), miles and miles of forest cleared. He talked with twinkle in his eye, proud of his project and left us greatly appreciative and impressed.

We arrived in time for Dr. Hansen’s 9:30 a.m. lecture at a conference room just off the helipad. The lecture hall was full, awaiting the rather dramatic arrival of Dr. Hansen, stepping off the chopper. Dr. Hansen returned to El Mirador after his lecture while we continued on to Tikal.

The Tikal trip was really interesting because of the comparisons: excavated and restored vs not; Classic vs. pre-classic. Visiting the famous central plaza flanked by two acropolis and temples 1 and 2 made it incredible to realize that all this could fit under El Tigre of El Mirador. It made us really appreciate, once again, the massive size of El Mirador.

So now I can say I have made it to El Mirador. If anyone wants to go, give me a call. Maybe we can make another trip, but I will not climb temples in the dark, and I will bring a good flashlight.

Note from the author: Any factual errors are mine, not Dr. Hansen’s.

written by Roxana Revolone photos: Lena Johannessen

No longer in the shadow of its more-famous neighbors Honduras, Guatemala and Nicaragua, El Salvador is now positioning itself on the tourist map as a more-than-attractive destination. The internationally recognized Lonely Planet list of “10 Best Tourist Destinations in the Word of 2010” includes, for the first time, this tiny Central American country as a not-to-miss destination.

As you think La Antigua when you think of Guatemala, the word on everyone’s lips when it comes to El Salvador is Playa El Tunco. Although the country is brimming with amazing places to visit, this small surfing beach has turned into a meeting point of international tourists as no other place in the country.

The morning starts with the first rays of sun that color the scenery while eager bodies carry their surfboards to dive into the first waves of the day. After enjoying the morning waves or just a refreshing swim in the warm Pacific waters, visitors can choose from a variety of breakfast options for the first meal of the day. There’s something here for every budget and taste, but all with one thing in common—the view of the natural rock just offshore that from one angle looks like a pig (therefore, its native name El Tunco, Salvadoran slang for pig).

El Tunco is not only for surfers; families and folks of all ages flock here to walk on the black volcanic beach, get a tan, fish or go snorkeling, kayaking or kite surfing. This area has turned into a vibrant destination, and each year new businesses serving foreign tourists open their doors.

In the past tourists had little to choose from other than surfing lessons and some restaurants. Now visitors can choose from a wide range of services such as internet cafés, coffee shops, convenience stores, arts and crafts, surf board rental and repair, vehicle and motorbike rentals, guide services and tours, pizzerias and vegetarian restaurants.

The beautiful sunsets of Playa El Tunco are ideal backdrops for practicing yoga or taking a romantic walk along the beach. Afterward, visiting one of the many bars or enjoying live music by candle light on the beach may be an appealing way to end the day and to charge your batteries for another day in the sun.

A visitor to the El Pilar garden specially designed for hummingbirds (Thor Janson)

El Pilar is a unique, natural habitat located just 3.5 km from La Antigua’s central park

A little-known natural sanctuary is located just outside of La Antigua Guatemala where pools are brimming with fresh, mountain spring water every day and where multi-colored hummingbirds buzz around in sporadic sprints by the dozens.

“It’s the best-kept secret in Antigua because no one really knows about it,” Bonnie Baguley, a longer-term traveler, remarked.

Those in search of a quick escape to an alluring natural setting can find El Pilar by following the path that leads past the church of San Cristóbal El Bajo to its end. Don’t be deceived by first appearances. El Pilar is a farm that sustains itself through mining rock. When you enter the property, you’ll see scattered mounds of rock and hear the drone of heavy machinery churning over gravel. Venture a little farther up the gravel road and you’ll find three sky-blue pools of varying depths. For just Q10, you can take a refreshing dip in water that comes straight from the surrounding mountains—salt and chlorine free.

The true treasure, however, lies beyond the pools.

“I didn’t even know about the rainforest area behind [the pools]. The last time we went we were—well, I can’t even remember why we went up there. We were just like, what do you think is up there?” Baguley recalled.

What lies beyond is a project in the making. There are no signs indicating that the farm is gradually developing a tourist-friendly infrastructure in a remarkably well-preserved natural reserve of endemic forest and wildlife. Perhaps the only hint to suggest that uphill lies a sanctuary of virtually untouched biodiversity is the distant calls of more than 130 species of birds. A bounty of other wildlife can also be found on the farm property, including grey fox, snakes, bats, porcupines, skunks, opossums, raccoons, frogs and lizards. Coffee grows wildly and naturally. At the highest points of the mountainous terrain, fragile cloud forests still struggle to thrive.

The farm was bought two generations ago with the idea of using the 11 caballerías of land (roughly 1,200 acres) for the sustainable harvest of timber. But the original purchaser, Germán Rivera, was not aware that the region was listed as a Zona de Veda. In other words, it is a protected area and altering the natural landscape, particularly through the removal of any trees, is prohibited.

“Because of the type of mountain and because of its geographical position, as well as the type of forest that’s above, the place generates a lot of water. As you can see we have water all over the place and this water goes to the surrounding communities,” Juan Rivera said.

Juan Rivera is the grandson of Germán Rivera and is now the manager of the special reserve. With a degree in eco-tourism from the Universidad del Valle in Guatemala City, this haven holds a special interest for Juan Rivera. The young grandson is hoping to more fully realize the benefits of such a unique natural sanctuary by developing minimally intrusive infrastructure throughout the property to make it more accessible to like-minded nature enthusiasts.

“So, all this time the place remained as it was, without anybody knowing what to do, except my grandfather who built the pools,” explains Rivera. “That was the only thing we had here: the pools and the little houses you can still see. After that, we started with the rocks and gravel about 10 years ago. And when I used to work here, I started to notice that it is a very beautiful place. The ecological conditions here are very unique. So, for my part, I began to say that we have to protect this place and that’s the way it started,” Rivera said.

Approaching the natural reserve, you must cross a wooden footbridge that runs along small, trickling ponds ornamented with bright, tropical flowers. These man-made ponds are used for growing a conservative quantity of tilapia. Next is a winding cobbled path that weaves between more neon-colored blossoms and sun-highlighted palms before emptying into a garden specially designed for hummingbirds. The row of artificial feeders and the specialized garden draw a constant hoard of varying species — one of which is the native rufous sabrewing.

“Mainly what you can see here are species of birds endemic to Southern Mexico and Northern Central America. And you can see here, drinking from the feeders, is one of the endemic hummingbirds. It is the one that is like cinnamon—big with a brown back. It’s a very unique specie to observe,” according to Rivera.

Visitors can spend hours watching the rufous sabrewing, the violet sabrewing, the green-throated mountain gem and many others from the large, wooden observation deck—a good place to rest before continuing along a wooden and natural rock path that plunges farther into pristine forest and jungle. About two kilometers of semi-strenuous hiking will leave even the fittest huffing and puffing as the trail winds up a wild mountain face. Guide Moisés Batres Morales estimates that the path challenges visitors with nearly 200 ascending steps before reaching the end of the trail. And still, those curious enough can continue the hike. Follow the gravel road past more forest until it eventually opens up into various clearings that are occasionally dotted with small shacks, cottages and cabins. Visitors can spy remnants of a colonial farm, as well as a set of palm trees that are reportedly more than 100-years old.

Both indigenous locals and nature-loving foreigners alike can be found calling these high-altitude clearings home. Anyone who does venture up this far is rewarded with breathtaking vistas of the Agua, Fuego and Acatenango volcanoes as well as much of the Panchoy Valley—including La Antigua, San Pedro Las Huertas, Chimaltenango, Cuidad Vieja, San Mateo and Cerro de la Cruz. It is at these altitudes that visitors can begin observing the unique climate, flora and fauna of the property’s delicate regions of cloud forest.

El Pilar is located about 3.5 kilometers from the central park. Begin by walking south toward 7a calle until you reach San Francisco Church. Walk past the church and behind it to find the path leading to Santa Ana. Look for El Calvario Church and INVAL, the institute for men. When you reach the landmarks, cross to the left to find the end of a path. You will be able to see the Church of San Cristobal El Bajo. Walk up the path, past the church until you reach El Pilar. The walk is about 20 minutes. A ride in a tuk tuk or taxi will take less than 10 minutes.

The cathedral in the center of town is surrounded by a zócolo or central plaza, so ample that there are several different sitting (and strolling) areas, some sunny and some shaded by tall trees, as well as the arcades on either side which house numerous cafes and restaurants. Oaxaca offers the visitor many excellent restaurants featuring the distinctive local cuisine, and a lively nightlife, as well as numerous galleries showcasing a variety of crafts for which the State of Oaxaca is justly famous.

Naturally, there are many churches that are worth a visit, and the local markets are bustling—full of life and full of typical Mexican produce and Oaxacan specialties. The latter include several varieties of moles, (complex chile and chocolate-based cooking sauces), more chocolate than you could possibly imagine, and (yes) fried grasshoppers. Oaxaca is also famous for mezcal, which like its cousin tequila, is made from agave.

Oaxaca city sits at the junction of three valleys known as las valles centrales, each of which is home to villages known for specific crafts or for pre-Columbian archeological sites. First among these is Monte Albán, the ancient Zapotec capital and one of Mexico’s most impressive ancient sites.
As in most of Mexico, el día de los muertos, the Day of the Dead, is celebrated in earnest in Oaxaca. Families spend days at the cemeteries, painting and decorating the graves of family members, praying, celebrating and sharing food. Some of the nearby valley towns are well known for their día de los muertos celebrations, and there are a few street processions and performances in Oaxaca itself.

What really makes the Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, however, are the altars—and they are everywhere. Nearly every public building, from museums to hotels to galleries and shops, has an altar in the lobby or entrance, commemorating ancestors. Mountains of marigolds, candles, textiles and skeleton dolls are artfully and often ingeniuosly combined with the favorite foods and drinks of the honored ancestor to create these ofrendas, which are an art form in themselves.

This, of course, makes late October a perfect time to visit Oaxaca. An easy overnight bus trip (12 hours, Mexican luxury bus) from San Cristóbal de las Casas, it is a skip and a jump from Guatemala, with a very pleasant place to stop on the way there or back.

Travelers, however, should check on the political situation before embarking on their journey. In 2006 Oaxaca was rocked by a local teacher’s strike, massive demonstrations and riots. While it had returned to a peaceful state by early 2007, the underlying issues have not been resolved. 

photos by Victoria Stone

text and photos by Miranda Munro

The swirling mist dusts Volcán San Pedro in a muted dove gray, catching dawn’s sunrays and washing it in an ethereal glow. The steely-mirrored waters of Lake Atitlán are quiet, rippled only by the wake of a distant boat that slides across its surface. The air is still, cool and refreshing. This awe-inspiring view is the reason that Lake Atitlán is undisputedly one of the world’s most beautiful lakes. It is here, in the moment and in the quiet that one can touch the magnificence of God’s creation.

The ringside seat for this spectacle is the lofty mountain that holds Tzantizotz Nature Reserve. Rising 2,100 meters, Tzantizotz is a private, 100-acre reserve lovingly cared for by the owners of Laguna Lodge Eco-Boutique Resort. In the local Kaqchikel language tzantizotz means place of bats.

Stands of high-altitude, tropical dry forest clothe the mountain. Covering the apex of the reserve, enshrouded by clouds, is a pocket of virgin primary forest, some of the last stands in the Santa Cruz area. A series of trails winds through the reserve; some are ancient Mayan paths that lead to sacred ceremonial rocks. High in the rock cliffs, for the adventurous, are facilities for rappelling and cliff-jumping. On the lake, for those who enjoy more sedate activities, there is kayaking, swimming or snorkeling.

The reserve holds a diversity of flora, and many medicinal and useful plants grow within it. A guide is available to explain the use and preparation of the local plants. Of particular interest to bird lovers is the rich variety of birds that flock to the sanctuary and safety of Tzantizotz. There are a recorded 236 bird species, including the elusive belted fly-catcher, that visit the area. Tzantizotz Nature Reserve is reached only by boat; there is no road access, leaving it virtually wild and undisturbed.

Proceeds from the minimal entrance fee into Tzantizotz Nature Reserve are funneled back into the preservation, protection, maintenance and reforestation of the reserve.

Tzantizotz Nature Reserve is a safe haven to hike and appreciate not only the wildlife and plants but also the spectacular views that the climb rewards you with. You are truly on cloud nine.

Tzantizotz Nature Reserve rolls down the mountain and in the sections where re-planting is being carried out organic coffee and fruit trees are grown for use in the internationally acclaimed Zotz restaurant. Zotz is part of Laguna Lodge and offers fine dining as spectacular as the views from its balcony restaurant. Organic local ingredients are blended into a symphony of tastes and textures to satisfy the palette of the most discerning connoisseur. Luxury accommodation is offered at Laguna Lodge, allowing you the time to explore the reserve and capture that special moment where your senses are embraced by the magnificence of nature’s beauty.
The Laguna Lodge Eco-Boutique Resort is a member of the Association of Private Nature Reserves of Guatemala and is located in Santa Cruz La Laguna, Lake Atitlán. For more information visit www.fiveleafresort.com

Especially the chicken molé-drenched version from Tequila Vallarta on Calle El Calmito east of the Parque Central, swimming in several different layers of chocolate and spiced with just enough molé sauce to require one of their delicious margaritas to cool your tongue.

Yes, the owners really are from Puerto Vallarta and on Sunday evenings, as the weekenders from Managua pass by in their shiny SUV’s, sitting at a table on the sidewalk in Granada, Nicaragua is a very good place to be. It will still be warm and humid from the earlier heat of the day but that’s why we have margaritas. The tourists walk by, ducking into the doors of the three- block-long stretch of restaurants, glance at the menu board and look around to see what’s on the nearest plate.

The margarita is perfect and frosty. A visit to Granada is well worth staying a day or two or more: the easiest way to go is to fly either COPA or TACA, you’re less than an hour away from Guatemala City. Take a USD $5 dollar bill to pay for the right to enter Nicaragua, and there will be taxis outside. If you book a room in most of the better hotels in Granada, they will arrange to have a car and driver waiting for you: it is usually a $35 ride, past the dusty streets of eastern Managua and out into the green-and-brown fields of the countryside. The road is good, and it usually takes 30 minutes to reach Granada.

A bit of history: Granada is the oldest city in Central America, founded in 1524 by Francisco Fernández de Córdoba. Time has not been kind to the “Great Sultan,” named in honor of its Moorish namesake in Spain. The city has suffered the slings and arrows of fortune, ranging from devastating earthquakes to the likes of that infamous pirate Henry Morgan, who sacked the town in June 1665. The last of the external pirates was invited by Granada’s traditional rival, the city of León, who imported William Walker from New Orleans with his band of mercenaries known as “the Immortals.”

He and his band of merry fellows defeated the city in 1850; he declared himself president and then launched a failed conquest of the rest of Central America. Twice. The second time he was captured and shot by a firing squad (in Trujillo, Honduras)—a lesson to some of us in the case of being called an immortal.

What is there to do in Granada? The central park is surrounded by beautiful colonial buildings, restored to hotels or Spanish schools. The big yellow building on the corner is the Italian Embassy. Horse-drawn carriages of various bright colors wait listlessly in the noonday sun, waiting for the slow tour of the city to begin. Arts and craft vendors line the outer edges of the park, and some very good embroidery can be found. Two of my favorite panamas now sport Granada-woven hatbands ($30 and a day to produce). There are a few museums, a few art galleries and several magnificent churches to visit. There is a new chocolate store on the south side of the park with enticing displays. There are local and city tours, lake tours (Lake Nicaragua) and the islands thereof, canopy tours of Volcán Mombacho and beautiful countryside to explore. Masaya, nearby, has a large marketplace of craftwork, ranging from woodwork to embroidery. When it gets to be too much, there is always Roxanne’s Massage on Calle El Calmito, up the street from Tequila Vallarta.

Don’t feel like another night of Mexican food? Try Jimmy Three Fingers BBQ on Calle Consulado, east of El Parque Central: The fish, chicken and beef are excellent and inexpensive. When Jimmy isn’t cooking, you’ll find him at the bar holding court, poking holes in the filter of his cigarette with a paper clip. “I’m trying to quit: I promised my Mom I’d quit after the first of the year.” He is a character, as are most of the ex-pats in Granada. For breakfast, it is practically mandatory to stop in at Kathies Waffle House, two blocks northwest of Parque Central, on the corner of Calle El Arsenal. The #24 on the menu is three eggs (anyway you like and done to perfection), four strips of bacon, hash browns and a big slice of freshly baked, whole-wheat bread.

Granada is a walking town. Take sturdy shoes and avoid the pitfalls and the occasional open holes in the sidewalks. Banks are close by for ATMs, and there are money-changers in the vicinity. Choose a hotel with a swimming pool, if possible. The days can get a bit warm when the breezes from the lake aren’t wafting through the trees. Relax: Granada is a smaller version of La Antigua Guatemala but with Lake Nicaragua at its doorstep.