Wait a minute—Panajachel?

The commonality is that all of them, whether world-class metropolis or funky tourist burgs, have hosted, or will host, the prestigious Cycle Messenger World Championships (CMWC). This month, the event comes to Central America for the first time, with Panajachel as its terminus and center of festivities.

The idea of a lap-around-the-lake bicycle race is not new. But back then it was too easy to win the first, second, and third place honors for the very first “Tour de Atitlán” in 1992, since only three contestants registered.

More successful and better attended races followed in ensuing years, but only now has Lake Atitlán appeared on the map of international cycling competition. But this is about much more than a race.
The event is named for the “Messengers,” a global fraternity of cycling competitors and aficionados. According to the CMWC website, Messengers are “friends coming together to embrace in a courier family reunion, and building new friendships for those brave competitors participating for the first time … there is nothing that compares, as far as pinnacle achievements for a professional bicycle Messenger, than to earn the title of World Champion.”

Who pays for all this? Mostly, suppliers of bicycle accessories, one typical sponsor is Trash Bags, a maker of all-weather bicycle totes.

Who benefits? Worthy projects in the community or country hosting the event. Among this year’s beneficiaries is Panajachel’s municipal stadium, which was severely damaged from flooding caused by Hurricane Stan in 2005. Given that the stadium took another hit in May with Tropical Storm Agatha, the CMWC event could not come at a better time.

Panajachel Mayor Gerardo Higueros is understandably jubilant. “We will provide our full support, collaboration and assistance!” he says.

The main race, to be held on September 12, has a special theme: a simulation of a real workday with deliveries and pick-ups organized in a mock city core, where routing and decision making becomes as important as speed and performance.

written by Asa Bjorklund and Judith Gibbons photos by Asa Bjorklund

Have you ever “choked” in the face of an important competition? Many athletes have panicked and become paralyzed in the arena, even to the point of giving up sports they really liked.

In June, Sandy Venneman, psychology professor and equestrian, visited Club Ecuestre La Ronda in Finca Azotea in Jocotenango, where she explained learning theory and sports psychology, providing principles that can be applied not only to equestrians and horses, but to other athletes and animals, and possibly even to the education of children.

With respect to the “choke” effect, Dr. Venneman suggested that we put the competition into perspective. It is not a life-or-death situation, paling in comparison to endemic poverty, volcanic eruptions and mudslides. Another strategy to avoid “choking” is to practice under competition-like conditions, even to the extent of wearing your show clothes for practice.

In using learning theory to train your horse to step forward quickly, you squeeze your legs tight against him, and he moves forward. You should then (a) keep up the pressure, (b) press harder to make him go faster, or (c) release the pressure?

According to learning theory, you need to (c) release the pressure, eliminating the unpleasant leg pressure to reward the horse for responding. This is called negative reinforcement. Parents use the same principle when they release their teenage children from being grounded when they improve their grades in school.

According to Sandy, the best way to use learning theory is to provide positive reinforcement to increase the likelihood of a desired behavior. Horses may respond to pats, carrots or “good boy.” She says that, “for most humans, including riding students, significant others and children, acts of service, praise, gifts, food, quality time and touch are effective rewards.”

Velvet Beard reflected on what she had learned from the clinic: “Getting a different perspective and seeing how Sandy got my horse to relax by getting me to relax. It was challenging because it is very hard to change your habits. For example, when I relaxed my body I felt like a rag doll in the saddle, but the effect it had on my horse was amazing,” she said.

While giving the equestrian clinic at Finca Azotea, Sandy enjoyed the natural beauty of the setting, commenting, “what a spectacular place to ride, with volcanoes in the background.”

text and photo by William Lynch

It was the finals for the Mosquito Division championship of the Open Schools Soccer Tournament. A field full of seven-, eight- and nine-year- olds was struggling to take home the City Champs Trophy, a tiny thing perhaps but very important to these kids. The game was chaotic since children at this age can’t kick very far or hard and have only a vague understanding of details like formations or positions; nevertheless, there was a great deal of action.

The Mayan Families Kids and Teen Sports Club’s PAMI School team, a special school for children who have to have regular jobs, like shoe shine boys who help support their families, was ahead throughout the game against the Open Schools team, a group of kids easily as needy as the PAMI kids but who cannot get into the Sports Club because it does not have additional resources.

At the end of play, PAMI won 4 to 2, in perhaps the first victory of any kind these little kids have ever had. They were jumping up and down ecstatic and went off chanting and singing to deliver their trophy to their school principal. The goal that tied down their victory was scored by Ana, a unique little nine-year-old girl who works in the open air market selling vegetables.

In a later meeting with the PAMI faculty, the Sports Club management learned of one unexpected result of its program. PAMI children participating in sports are suddenly showing an improved academic performance. Nobody is skipping classes or turning up late and failing to do homework. The kids know that the Sports Club won´t let them play if they don´t keep up their grades.

A re-enactment of the ancient Mayan ball game of pok-ta-pok

text and photos by Michael Sherer

Chocoguatemaya (www.chocoguate-maya.org), in cooperation with the Ministry of Culture and Sports, arranged for a re-enactment of the ancient Maya ball game of pok-ta-pok, in connection with its mission of preserving the Mayan chocolate culture. Corinne Willock, founder, and José Caal, the vice president, were center stage.

Containers of copal incense were lit, prayers were said and torches blazed. Traditional Mayan music played from loudspeakers as the three painted and armored ball players came to the court. The black and white skull face was a reminder of the seriousness of this game. It was a serious pastime, a ritual and a vital part of the Mayan religion. It is considered the oldest sport of mankind, dating from 2500 B.C. The most ancient court (500 B.C.) found in Guatemala is at Nakbe, Petén.* Thus far 216 courts have been discovered in Guatemala, and some 1,500 have been found throughout Mesoamerica.

The size of the courts varied but they were usually 25 by 75 feet. Built mostly from stone (though with some of wood), with inward sloping walls, the rings were set approximately 27 feet high. The ball, made out of natural rubber, was usually 10-12 inches in diameter. The players, on teams of 2-11 players, could only use their hips, thighs and forearms, and wore thick padding (and lots of body and face paint). The ball is believed to have represented the sun or the moon, and the stone circle, the universe; with the court itself being the Earth.
Another version of the game was presented: the ball of fire. The players brought out painted clubs, the ball was soaked in fuel and then lit … whoosh! — field hockey the Mayan way and a lot more exciting.

Many warriors and kings played the game fiercely. Sometimes the losers lost their heads, which would be displayed later in front of the court.

The point system? Every time the ball went through the circle, two points were awarded to that team, two points were taken away from the losing side and the game ended at nine points. It’s been said that sometimes the game would go on for two to three days. It is and was a spectacle of clouds of incense, fire and fiercely painted warriors. It made the Super Bowl look like a Girl Scout jamboree.

Las Manos (The Hands), Los Cuates (Buddies), Talleres (Metal Workers), Areneros (Sand Diggers), Las Muñecas (The Dolls), Los Dragones (The Dragons), these are a few of the 36 soccer teams participating in the Barrio Norte Soccer Project. Every Saturday and Sunday the raucous cheers and thuds of the games can be heard throughout the barrio. There are 350 boys and girls (ages 11-17) and young adults involved, thanks to Willy Lynch, sports lover and patron, and Robin Rodríguez, manager, and Juan of All Trades, himself a former second division professional soccer player and father of four.

Three years ago, after Hurricane Stan decimated Barrio Norte in Panajachel, Lake Atitlán, Willy became concerned that there was nowhere in the barrio for the kids to play and most were just hanging out and headed for trouble. He talked to Don Meme Pablo de León about using some of his land for a soccer field. Don Meme agreed to lend the land, and the locals started moving boulders, tree trunks and other debris left by the flash flood. They hired earth movers to carve out a space 40 by 28 meters (smaller than a regulation playing field). The men raked and leveled as best they could.

Willy provides trophies, medals, chalk for lines, soccer balls and nets, as well as celebratory pizza and sodas after the tournaments. The men, mostly fathers of the kids, maintain the field and provide volunteer referees. If they don’t work, they forfeit their games. What began as a barrio project now involves teams from Jucanyá, Patanatic and other areas, but all the work is done by the people of Barrio Norte. By now most teams have their own uniforms; there are loaner uniforms for those without. Willy hopes to see more fields in other parts of town. The problem is getting land, most of which is privately owned.

This year Willy started a basketball program and held a free basketball clinic when his daughter, Lauren, a physical education teacher in New York City’s Bedford-Stuyvesant area, came for a visit. Sixty kids attended. Lauren plans to return in December because she was so impressed with the kids. “They were respectful, they listened, they were well behaved. There was no arguing or fighting! What a change from up North. Sixty kids up there would have been total chaos!” They now have 10 to 15 teams with both boys and girls (ages 8-15) on the same teams. Annette García, from Australia, is their coach.

Willy, too, comments on the behavior of these youngsters: “There’s no getting into trouble, no smoking, no drinking, no pot. They’re well spoken, polite and they listen. There are no fights in the games and, so far, no injuries. They play rough, but there is no intentional fouling. They are good sports and they have a lot of fun.”
I interviewed some of the kids and found them surprisingly open and forthcoming. Brian, 11, who has been in the program for two years, says “I like to make goals. I have no bad grades, my favorite subject is math. I want to be a computer expert.” Josue, 11, likes being a striker (forward). He gets 60s and 70s in school and wants to be a doctor. Henry, 13, also a striker, says his grades are “some good, some bad.” Spanish is difficult for him. He wants to be a PE teacher. Mario, 13, likes defense. His grades are “satisfactory.” His favorite subject is math and he wants to be a teacher.

The referee that day, Minor, also a former second division player, says it’s very important for kids to play and not get into trouble. “They get very enthusiastic, they don’t want to lose. If the ref is demanding and calls fouls, they listen. If he doesn’t know what he’s doing, they ignore him.” Minor volunteers because sports are important for the community. “If people do only what they are paid to do, you lose the spirit of sport. It’s for the good of the community.” He has been supportive of kids’ sports for the past 15 years.

Robin is the key person, says Willy. “He does all the organizing, schedules, contacts everyone to remind them of games, keeps track of the volunteer commitments—everything, for free. He is also a referee. ”

Willy says volunteer coaches (Spanish speaking) are needed, even for a couple of weeks at a time, as well as money for soccer balls (100-150Q), uniforms (100Q), and shoes for those who can’t afford them. And space to play, even if only for a few years. If you are interested in participating, please email: Willy34@msn.com
After all, he says, “It’s fun, good for the kids. I meet lots of people. When you retire to Guatemala, you need to find a passion, a purpose, a way to become a real part of your community. Otherwise you just die.”

(photo by vicky stephens)

Nicaraguan ultra-marathon not for the faint of heart… literally.

One word sums it up: extreme. A new ultra-marathon in Nicaragua is drawing the most audacious of athletes to its volcanic island of Ometepe. Fuego y Agua 100k and 50k is Isla de Ometepe’s first-ever racing event, challenging true adventure seekers to summit not one, but two looming volcanoes … by foot.

“The course is extremely difficult. One runner said it was harder than Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc, one of the premier 100k races in Europe,” Josue Stephens warned. He adds the concept is quite radical for locals.

“This island is the world to these islanders. Going around it in one day by foot is absolutely mind blowing.”

Stephens is the founder and organizer of the race, which is expected to lure up to 100 professional runners. On December 12, well before the sun comes up, runners will attempt to conquer the challenging slopes of both the Concepción and Maderas volcanoes.

“If it’s raining, it’s very possible the runners will be in mud and water up to their knees. And when they reach the crater, the lagoon, they will have to back-climb out of the crater and it’s a very steep lava flow trail that they’ll be climbing out of.”

Runners will battle temperatures that range from 65 to 95 degrees, bugs, roots and steep, single-track ascents and descents, including “a narrow trail [that ascends] almost straight up the [Maderas] volcano for about 10 kilometers,” through a dense, tropical jungle, Stephens said.

With the inaugural race taking place last year, this year’s event will be the second time radical runners have had the chance to tackle the unique course. The ultra-marathon isn’t only meant to challenge extreme athletes, though. Stephens established this event as a grassroots movement to promote various eco-tourism projects on the island. Local businesses will provide all site-specific resources for the race, including aid stations, safety guides, food, medical care and lodging. The race will contribute to the island’s two volcanic national parks and help raise awareness about illegal poaching within the parks.

“Plus, we’re helping raise awareness about how to maintain the trails, keep people from cutting too many trails, and prevent erosion,” Stephens said.

This year, Stephens is also organizing a trash pickup day to demonstrate the importance of proper waste management to the island’s various municipalities. Stephens says he envisions the Fuego y Agua developing into a legacy. In conjunction with the 100k and the 50k races, local children from throughout the island will have the chance to compete in their own race, the Calzado para Ometepe 5k and 10k. Stephens says the idea is for the race to encourage schools to organize their own cross-country teams. Traverse Trail Running, an organization Stephens helped co-create, is leading a fundraiser to help equip cross-country teams on Ometepe with running shoes.

“We gave over 100 pairs of good used running shoes to the runners of the 5k event last year and we hope to be able to do that again.”

For those running enthusiasts who aren’t quite ready for a whopping 100k or even a 50k, this year organizers are also offering a 25-kilometer option.

“We also have a 100k, four-stage relay for 2/3 runners. This will be a fun option for teams. … We hope this year will be big enough to bring several great race reports back from runners touting the beauty of Isla de Ometepe and Nicaragua.”

Visit www.fuegoyagua.org to learn more.