Everything offered won’t be new to a traveler who’s at least trolled the occasional market: fruit and knick-knacks, dance troupes and shows, and carnival rides that may have been assembled with scrap wood.

What sets Xela’s apart is the sheer scope of it all: This is Vegas for someone used to pulling airport slots.

If you’ve mastered the coasters at your state fair back home, these will take you to a whole new level. Tickets buy you three times as much time upside down than you’re used to, so save the (surprisingly good) peanut smoothies until after.

The countdown for next year begins now, when Guatemalans from all over experience a unifying week of great tacos, endless shopping and the largest Ferris wheel you’ve ever seen.

The calm (and coffee) after the storm: Santa Anita La Unión

Rebels are on the move in Libya, Egyptians are overhauling their constitution and Tunisians unseated a multi-decade dictator, but reading about it in Guatemala’s relative tranquility makes it easy to forget that the same turmoil engulfed Guatemala not long ago. A history of the 36-year civil war and what has changed since the 1996 Peace Accords has been exhaustively covered in articles and books. But to receive first-hand accounts from those who were there, a few chicken bus rides can put some faces on the statistics.

A little less than two hours outside of Quetzaltenango, Santa Anita La Unión is a fair-trade coffee finca and eco-tourism site founded by a group of 35 ex-guerillas. They’ve transformed land they camped on during the war into a growing community, boasting schoolhouses and basketball courts. Local women will take you on a hiking tour that offers stunning views, a (very cold) waterfall and demonstrations on how to harvest and roast the beans.

One of the main services offered is a conference with an ex-combatant, and we sat down with a man named Mauricio in the main room of the dormitory. Our rooms had originally been home to the guerillas when they first arrived, and their ghosts filled the walls as he talked about the state of the finca today, problems in Guatemala, and what daily life was like on the run from the army. We peppered him with questions, and he gladly answered.

Visitors are welcome to stay for a single night or several weeks, volunteering while living with local families. Your involvement in the community is up to you.

One afternoon during our second day, we were ushered into a small chapel to participate in Mass led by a priest from Colombia. My wife and I were near the back, next to the couple we had eaten with the previous night.

After Mass we watched some American volunteers play with kids around the school buildings. It was “cooking week,” so regular classes had been replaced by cooking workshops, and we joined several high school girls and boys making pastries. After some scooping, mashing and a few dashes of cinnamon the creations were put into an oven, and we waited for them to be ready on the steps of the main building. Surrounded by left-wing murals and under the shadow of Santa Maria, I hoped that these kids offered a way out of the history of violence they had inherited.

Accommodations are more than adequate and prices are reasonable; I hope to return with others. For more information visit www.santaanitafinca.com

Guatemala’s second (and maybe best) city

written by Blake Nelson

I spent my first year out of college teaching in Puerto Cortés, Honduras, and a typical conversation went like this:

LOCAL: Do you like living here?
ME: I love it!
LOCAL: Really? I don’t.
ME: Let’s change the subject!

After to moving to Quetzaltenango (commonly known as Xela, from the Mayan Xelajú), I was struck by another recurring conversation:

EX-PAT: How long do you think you’ll stay here?
ME: I don’t know.
EX-PAT: I was only supposed to stay for 10 days… that was in 1979.
My wife and I quickly found out why. Xela draws you in for all the right reasons. My former statement about Honduras wasn’t a total lie (what was I supposed to say?), but there’s something about this city that makes you want to stay a while.

Xela is the Goldilocks of Central America: Everything is just right. It’s big but not massive, cold but not freezing, set apart but not isolated.

Europeans come for Xela’s world-renowned language schools; indigenous women sell the freshest pineapples you could ask for; and ladino teenagers in skinny jeans frequent the clubs that dot downtown.

It’s also a good headquarters in the Highlands: Nearby are day hikes (Volcán de Santa María is a gorgeous, if grueling, climb); resorts and hostels (IRTRA and La Unión de Santa Anita provide two extremes); Mayan ruins; and zip-lining. So, there’s a good chance you’ll extend your layover a few extra days—if not months or years.

In the 19th century, Xela was battling with Guatemala City for national supremacy after losing its fight to be Central America’s independent “sixth state.” Xela is sort of Guatemala’s Texas; it rivaled the capital in size, scope and cultural importance—until an earthquake in 1902 leveled the place. Yet the damage was a mixed blessing, for Xela has largely escaped overpopulation, violent crime and urban sprawl.

“In the area are day hikes, resorts, hostels, water parks, Mayan ruins, language schools, zip lines and plenty more.”

Xela now prides itself as Guatemala’s cultural capital, and the attractive mix of Spanish colonial architecture with a Greco-Roman flair won’t let you forget it.

A walking tour of the city is interesting, but the cemetery deserves a special highlight. On Day of the Dead (Nov. 1) last year my uncle finally succumbed to a multi-year battle with Lou Gehrig’s disease, and I considered canceling a planned visit to the cemetery to watch locals fly kites. I’m glad I didn’t.

Walking between mausoleums—designed as mini-cathedrals, Egyptian pyramids and the White House (!)—amidst thousands of people who were also remembering their loved ones was both healing and unforgettable. Even if you’re not there on the 1st of November, make sure to block out an hour or two to appreciate the kaleidoscope of colored tombs that stretches for miles.

With so many sites and activities to choose from in and around Xela, you’ll enjoy losing yourself in one of the country’s best cities.

For Quetzaltenango and the Highlands travel information, package tours and more visit www.adrenalinatours.com or your local travel and tour operator.

photos by Harry Díaz www.flickr.com/harrydiaz

I left my favorite shirt on a hammock in Monterrico

text/photos by Tanya Hughes

Guatemala is a magical place. I came here the first time on a brief holiday that started on the Caribbean coast of Mexico and took me through Belize and finally into Guatemala. I was impressed with Tikal and Petén, but I immediately fell in love with La Antigua Guatemala.

The unique energy that has captured so many hearts called to me once I had returned to Canada, and in less than two years I left my career and my Vancouver home to return here.

Now with more time to explore, I based myself in Antigua and then headed out. First stop, Monterrico. If you haven’t been to the Pacific coast of Guatemala, pack your bags. Armed with my favorite book, I planned a two-night stay that turned into seven days.

The volcanic black-sand beach stretches out for miles of beauty and tranquility. If you want real peace and quiet, this is the place—during the week, that is. Weekends light up with tourists and Guatemalans alike, sun seekers looking for their own brand of stress relief, and there is nothing quiet about it.

Combined with what may be the most beautiful sunsets I have seen anywhere, there really is something for everyone in Monterrico. Just don’t use your favorite shirt as a hammock pillow and then leave it there when your shuttle arrives!

Next stop, Lake Atitlán. I did not have time to visit the lake during my first trip to Guatemala, and based on recommendations from friends, I headed for San Marcos.

Arriving at night and without a hotel reservation, I wandered to several places only to find everything booked. Some children happily walked me to a few places in hopes of receiving a tip, and I finally found a beautiful lakefront room. It was well out of my backpacker budget range, but I had to shake my head when I realized that I had paid more for a parking space at the last U.S. hotel where I stayed.

Off to explore after a tranquil morning coffee on my patio, I discovered that this tiny town houses unique holistic and spiritual centers, offering crystal aura cleanings, massages, yoga and spiritual classes ranging from a day to three months. San Marcos also has what ended up as my favorite restaurant in Guatemala so far.

Not to forget the lake itself, where for under Q20 you can hit the water to visit neighboring towns for more exploration and totally different vibes. Horseback riding, kayaking and some of the best markets in Guatemala are easily within reach.

If you’re just into relaxing, ask in San Marcos where to get one of Brad’s famous tequila concoctions that are guaranteed to bring you to another level of consciousness in no time.

Quetzaltenango was a different experience altogether. This fast-paced city is also centered around a central park but has a very different feel than its sister city, Antigua. First off, bring a jacket. Bask in the hot sun by day and settle into one of the happening nightspots to keep warm at night. If you’re the adventurous and athletic type, I suggest trying the overnight full moon volcano hike. Just be sure to bundle up.

With a sigh of comfort and relief, I returned to my Antigua apartment. I loved my expedition but Antigua truly is my favorite place in Guatemala. 

Every day is a new adventure, finding yet another ancient ruin, or a great restaurant set in beautiful gardens hidden behind a tiny wooden doorway. There is no shortage of unexpected treasures and beauty. People from all over the world and all walks of life are drawn here. If this is your first visit, I’m sure it won’t be your last.

Horseback riding, kayaking and some of the best markets in Guatemala are easily withing reach at the lake.

Procesión Catedral, Quetzaltenango 2008 (photo: Harry Díaz/www.flickr.com/harrydiaz)

(photo: Harry Díaz/www.flickr.com/harrydiaz)

Lasting from one to 12 hours, processions wind through the streets while musicians walk behind the andas playing mournful dirges as the smell and smoke of incense swirls through the air.